Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
While we have noticed the poverty of the Akootans, yet, as we
contemplate the wretched little village on Avatanak, close by
and facing the straits, we must call this the most abject human
settlement, perhaps, that we shall or can find throughout the
archipelago—only nineteen souls living here in the most abandoned
squalor and apathy, principally upon the sea-castings of the beach
and mussels. Yet this island in olden days was the happy home for a
busy little fishing community which then had three settlements on
the banks of a beautiful stream that empties its clear waters into
the sea on its north side. The most revolting chapter in all the
long story of Russian outrage and oppression of Aleutian natives
is devoted to a recital of the savage brutality of Solovaiyah and
Notoorbin, who lived here during the winter of 1763.
Steam-vessels usually make the jagged headlands and peaks of Tigalda
Island as their first land-fall _en route_ from San Francisco to
Oonalashka and Bering Sea. They then shape their course into Akootan
Straits very easily and safely. The currents and winds, which always
cause a variation of the ship’s course, never carry the vessel much
to the right of Tigalda, or to the left of Avatanak, so that an
experienced Alaskan mariner has but little difficulty—even though
dense fog prevails, which only gives him fitful gleams of the rude
landscape—in recognizing some one of the characteristic peaks or
bluffs of these Krenitzin islands; then, with a known point of
departure, he can literally feel his way into Oonalashka Harbor. He
almost always has to do so, for seldom indeed does he enjoy as fair
a sweep of these coasts of Avatanak and Tigalda as that viewed by
the author, who scanned this rocky group in a calm, clear September
afternoon of 1876.
To-day, Tigalda is an utterly abandoned island, given over during
the summer to the undisturbed possession of foxes and those flocks
of “tundra” geese which settle on the uplands to breed and preen
in safety. When moulting here, they have the shelter of several
lakes, upon which they swim in mocking security, even if crafty,
lurking Reynard attempts to capture them. Near the largest lake on
this island a settlement once throve. The inhabitants had control
of a mine of red and golden-yellow chalk, which formed the base of
a pigment highly prized by all Aleutes, far and near, for painting
their ancient grass, and wooden hats, and other work of the same
materials. On the north side of this island is a singular cluster of
needle rocks which rise, as twenty-eight points, abruptly from the
sea. On them, in positive security, the big burgomaster gull breeds,
and the eagle-like pinions of this bird bear thousands of heavy
bodies in stately flight over and around these nesting-places. The
shrill, hawk-like screams of those “chikies” can be heard far out at
sea, over the noise of the surf.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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