Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
A superb survey of Oonalashka Island can be made by the ascent
of Mount Wood, which rears its sharp, syenitic peak two thousand
eight hundred feet behind and right over the village and harbor of
Illoolook. The path to the summit is not difficult, and the panorama
spread out under your eyes well repays the effort. It gives you a
better idea of what a singularly mountainous region the island is,
of the comparative absence of level or bottom-land areas—everything
seems to spring from the surrounding ocean mirror, to hills—from
hills, in turn, to mountains that end in sharp and rugged peaks. Upon
the rocky, frost-riven shingle of these summits nothing can grow
except those tiny polar lichens which we find existing, clinging to
the earth and rocks of the uttermost limits of the North as far as we
have knowledge.
If the fog lifts its gray-blue curtain from the unruffled, clear
surface of Captain’s Harbor, and rolls back and away from the red
and brown head of the cold crater of Paistrakov on the left, and
from the black, jagged outlines of the “Prince” on your right, you
will then have at your feet a picture of surpassing scenic beauty,
both of contour and color, before and under your delighted vision.
The rougher waters of Bering Sea have power no farther inland than
their foaming at the feet of Waterfall Head and the dark bases of
the Prince, for they rapidly fade into a smooth, still peace as the
queer, hook-like sand-spit of Oolachta Harbor is reached, and the
anchorage of Illoolook village is attained; its houses and barraboras
just peep out from the obscuring foothills of the mountain upon which
we stand, and we can faintly discern a delicate fringe of sea-foam
along the border of a long-curved beach in front. Two schooners and a
steamer lie motionless upon the glassy bay, like so many microscopic
water insects.
Turning right about and looking south, our eyes fall upon a radically
different landscape—a bewildering, labyrinthian maze of Oonalashkan
mountain peaks and ranges, rising in defiance to all law and order
of position, with that lovely island-studded water of the head to
Captain’s Harbor in the foreground. Ridge after ridge, summit after
summit, fades out one behind the other into the oblivion of distance,
where the suggestion of a continuance to this same wild interior is
vividly made, in spite of wreaths of fog and lines of snowy sheen,
relieved so brightly by that greenish-blue of the mosses and sphagnum
in which they are set. A few pretty snow-buntings flutter over the
rocks to the leeward of our position; their white, restless forms are
the only evidence or indication of animal life in our rugged vista of
an Oonalashkan interior. Yet, could we see better, we might notice a
lurking red fox, and flush a bevy or two of summer-dressed ptarmigan,
feeding as they do on the crowberries, the sphagnum, willow-buds and
insect-life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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