Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
Cosmopolitan as is the street pageant of Georgetown, it is, however, not
so much so as that of Port of Spain. The coolies are even more numerous
there than here, and in addition to the same sort of English and negro
life, there is also an American, Spanish and French element. One hears on
all sides the pretty French patois, and the musical Spanish of the South
American is a constant delight. This large Spanish and French population
make Port of Spain a decidedly Catholic city, and priests and nuns in
unfamiliar garbs are always a part of the picture.
It is very hard for us Northerners to realize that the course of a
tropical day is much the same the year around. Here is a Georgetown day
as we found it in February. At 5.30 A.M. it is still dark and the only
sound is an occasional raucous crow from chanticleer. Soon a subdued
murmur of sound is heard and this remains unchanged in volume for some
time. Then the sunrise gun booms in the distance; a Kiskadee shrieks just
outside our window; a score of others answer him; church chimes ring out;
noisy coolie carts rattle past; negroes sing, dogs bark; an excellent
brass band strikes up a two-step and amid all this pandemonium of sound
the sun literally leaps above the horizon and instantly fills the world
with brilliant color. The scene changes like magic; there is no dawn or
dusk, night gives place to day without intermission. The temperature
morning and evening is about 76°.
Woven amid all the harsh cries of Kiskadees and Tanagers is heard the
sweet warbling of the little House Wrens, reminding us of our singers of
the North, and bubbling over with the same crisp, vocal vitality which we
hear in early Spring in our own country.
Like the morning, the tropical day itself is one of extremes. The
morning dawns fresh and bracing; until nine o’clock one walks briskly,
breathes deeply and can hardly realize that he is at sea-level within
seven degrees of the equator. It is April and May in the calendar of
one’s feelings. Then for an hour or two June reigns, and finally from
eleven to five o’clock in the afternoon it is hot, sultry August. In
the shade, however, it is always comfortable. From three o’clock on we
experience the coolness of October and until darkness shuts suddenly down
about half-past six—like the snuffing out of a candle—the temperature is
perfect. The nights are delightfully cool. Mosquitoes are bad only in the
houses and at night one’s net is a protection. The humidity is high but
it is far more bearable than that of a summer in New York City, contrary
to our usual idea of the tropics.
The manner of rain in the tropics is peculiar: the atmosphere may be
ablaze with brilliant sunshine, when a slight haze appears in the air and
suddenly one realizes that a fine gentle rain is falling. This may cease
as imperceptibly as it began, or increase to a terrific downpour—to give
place perhaps a few minutes later to the clear tropic glare again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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