Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in PhysiographyShaler, Nathaniel Southgate
History
Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in Physiography
Shaler, Nathaniel Southgate
Physical geography
As waves are among the interesting things in the world, partly on
account of their living quality and partly because of their immediate
and often exceeding interest to man, we may here note one or two
peculiar features in their action. In the first place, as the reader
who has gained a sense of the changes in form of action may readily
perceive, the beating of waves on the shore converts the energy which
they possess into heat. This probably warms the water during great
storms, so that by the hand we may note the difference in temperature
next the coast line and in the open waters. This relative warmth of
the surf water is perhaps a matter of some importance in limiting the
development of ice along the shore line; it may also favour the
protection of the coast life against the severe cold of the winter
season.
The waves which successively come against the shore in any given time,
particularly if a violent wind is blowing on to the coast, are usually
of about the same size. When, however, in times of calm an old sea, as
it is called, is rolling in, the surges may occasionally undergo very
great variations in magnitude. Not infrequently these occasional waves
are great enough to overwhelm persons who are upon the rocks next the
shore. These greater surges are probably to be accounted for by the
fact that in the open sea waves produced by winds blowing in different
directions may run on with their diverse courses and varied intervals
until they come near the shore. Running in together, it very well
happens that two of the surges belonging to different sets may combine
their forces, thus doubling the swell. The danger which these
conjoined waves bring is obviously greatest on cliff shores, where, on
account of the depth of water, the waves do not break until they
strike the steep.
* * * * *
Having considered in a general way the action of waves as they roll in
to the shore, bearing with them the solar energy which was contributed
to them by the winds, we shall now take up in some detail the work
which goes on along the coast line--work which is mainly accomplished
by wave action.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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