Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in PhysiographyShaler, Nathaniel Southgate
History
Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in Physiography
Shaler, Nathaniel Southgate
Physical geography
On most coast lines the observer readily notes that the shore is
divided into two different kinds of faces--those where the inner
margin of the wave-swept belt comes against rocky steeps, and those
bordered by a strand altogether composed of materials which the surges
have thrown up. These may be termed for convenience cliff shores and
wall-beach shores. We shall begin our inquiry with cliff shores, for
in those sections of the coast line the sea is doing its most
characteristic and important work of assaulting the land. If the
student has an opportunity to approach a set of cliffs of hard rock in
time of heavy storm, when the waves have somewhere their maximum
height, he should seek some headland which may offer him safe foothold
whence he can behold the movements which are taking place. If he is so
fortunate as to have in view, as well may be the case, cliffs which
extend down into deep water, and others which are bordered by rude
and generally steeply sloping beaches covered with large stones, he
may perceive that the waves come in against the cliffs which plunge
into deep water without taking on the breaker form. In this case the
undulation strikes but a moderate blow; the wave is not greatly
broken. The part next the rock may shoot up as a thin sheet to a
considerable height; it is evident that while the ongoing wave applies
a good deal of pressure to the steep, it does not deliver its energy
in the effective form of a blow as when the wave overturns, or in the
consequent rush of the water up a beach slope. It is easy to perceive
that firm-set rock cliffs, with no beaches at their bases, can almost
indefinitely withstand the assaults. On the steep and stony beach,
because of its relatively great declivity, the breaker or surf forms
far in, and even in its first plunge often attains the base of the
precipice. The blow of the overfalling as well as that of the inrush
moves about stones of great size; those three feet or more in diameter
are often hurled by the action against the base of the steep, striking
blows, the sharp note of which can often be heard above the general
roar which the commotion produces. The needlelike crags forming isles
standing at a distance from the shore, such as are often found along
hard rock coasts, are singularly protected from the action of
effective waves. The surges which strike against them are unarmed with
stones, and the water at their bases is so deep that it does not sway
with the motion with sufficient energy to move them on the bottom.
Where a cliff is in this condition, it may endure until an elevation
of the coast line brings its base near the level of the sea, or until
the process of decay has detached a sufficient quantity of stone to
form a talus or inclined plane reaching near to the water level.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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