Overbeck left the hospitable roof of Cornelius in Munich at the end of
August, 1831, and reached Heidelberg, there to meet with an enthusiastic
reception from friends and admirers; there also, after a separation of
five-and-twenty years, he saw once more, and for the last time, his
elder brother from Lübeck. Close to Heidelberg, overhanging the banks of
the Necker, is Stift Neuburg, formerly a monastic establishment, but
then the picturesque residence of a family in warmest bonds of
friendship with the art brethren. At this lovely spot, I am told by the
present owner, "Overbeck stayed several days, and a seat in the garden
is still called after him 'Overbeck's Plätzchen.'" On this rustic bench
the painter was wont to sit meditatively amid scenery of surpassing
beauty; the quietude of nature and the converse of kindred minds were to
his heart's content. Within the old mansion, on the walls and in
portfolios, are the choicest examples of the artist's early and middle
periods; thus Stift Neuburg in its house and grounds remains sacred to
the painter's memory.[6]
From Heidelberg Overbeck travelled to Frankfort--a city soon to become a
focus of the wide-spreading revival. Here the apostle of sacred art made
the acquaintance of the poet Clemens Brentano, and fell among other
friends and adorers. Philip Veit, his fellow-worker in the Casa
Bartholdi and the Villa Massimo, had just been appointed Director of the
Städel Institute, where he executed one of the noblest of frescoes--_The
Introduction of the Arts into Germany through Christianity_. Likewise
among warm adherents was Johann Passavant, a painter who in Rome had
joined the brethren, a critic who made a name by the 'Life of Raphael.'
Overbeck was here esteemed "the greatest living artist," and some
expressed "the cherished thought, the earnest desire" that the painter
should be secured for Frankfort. But as this proved out of the question,
the promise was gladly accepted of the master-work since famous as _The
Triumph of Religion in the Arts_. Cologne next received a visit, and the
Cathedral choir having advanced towards completion, the assistance of
the Christian painter was naturally solicited: _The Assumption of the
Virgin_, now adorning a side chapel, counts among the memorable fruits
of the painter's timely visit to his native land. This northern journey
was extended as far as Düsseldorf, a sequestered town already growing
illustrious for its school of religious painting. Wilhelm Schadow,
co-partner in Roman labours, had here, as Director of the Academy,
gathered round him devoted scholars, and Overbeck greeted his old friend
as a missionary in the common cause. After receiving on all hands
respectful adulations which would have turned a vainer head, the
traveller bent his steps southwards, and reached Italy by way of
Strasburg and Switzerland. On reaching Rome, he writes on the 1st of
December to Cornelius in characteristic tone: "You will understand with
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