Oxford (England) -- Description and travel; University of Oxford
Such are some of the memories evoked by the Tower of Carfax, the best
view of which is given in Mr. Matthison's first drawing. The second
illustration is from a point rather farther to the eastward. Both give
a glimpse of the Mitre Hotel, most picturesque of old Oxford hostelries,
and the second a part of the front of All Saints. At this point we may
for a moment leave the High Street (which we have begun to traverse,
half insensibly, under the artist's guidance) and wander down "The
Turl," as Turl Street is commonly called. "Turl" is said to be
a corruption of Thorold, and Thorold to have been the name of a
postern-gate in the old city walls. The quiet old street has Colleges on
either hand, Lincoln, Exeter, and Jesus. Retracing our footsteps, we get
the fine view of All Saints which is given in the third illustration.
The history of this Church, known originally as All Hallows, goes back
to the twelfth century, but the present building, designed by Dr.
Aldrich, a former Dean of Christ Church, has only been in existence
since 1708, the old one having been destroyed in 1699 by the fall of its
spire. The present graceful tower and spire are a worthy memorial of
Dean Aldrich's versatility.
[Illustration: 0072]
[Illustration: 0073]
We now return to our exploration of "The High," whose magnificence of
outline become more and more apparent as one walks eastwards. It was
a poet bred at Cambridge, no less a poet than Wordsworth, whom the
manifold charm of Oxford tempted "to slight his own beloved Cam"; and
he it is who has written the most quotable description of "The High" in
brief. "The streamlike windings of that glorious street," he writes: and
indeed its curve suggests nothing so much as the majestic bend of some
noble river. We may cite, too, Sir Walter Scott's testimony, who claimed
that the High Street of Edinburgh is the most magnificent in Great
Britain, _except the High Street of Oxford_. It is not at all difficult
to assent to this opinion. As the view gradually unfolds itself, we have
on our left successively the new front of Brasenose, St. Mary's, All
Souls, Queen's, and Magdalen; on our right the long, dark front of
University, and many old dwelling-houses, whose architecture does not
shame their situation. Looking backward for a moment at Queen's College
(perhaps when the west is rosy, as in Mr. Matthison's drawing), one sees
substantially the same view which delighted Wordsworth in 1820; and we,
if we are wise, shall take as much delight in it as he. Many thousand
times since then has the sun set behind the spires of St. Mary's and All
Saints, but the unaltered prospect obliterates the intervening years,
and we are at one with the great poet in his admiration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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