Oxford (England) -- Description and travel; University of Oxford
Standing at Carfax, and occasionally moving a step to one side or
another, I see with my eyes, indeed, the west front of Christ Church,
with Tom Tower; the borders of All Saints’ and St. Mary’s; and that grim
tower of St. Michael’s; and the handsome curves of High Street and St.
Aldate’s, which are part of the mere good fortune of Oxford: but,
especially if a dawn light recall the first dim shining, or a sunset
recall the grey and golden splendour of its maturity, I may also see the
past of the University unrolled again. For at Carfax I am in sight of
monuments on which is implied or recorded all its history. On the south,
above Folly Bridge, is the gravelly reach that formed the eponymous
ford; between that and Christ Church was the old south gate; and,
through Wolsey’s gateway, lies the Cathedral, speaking of St.
Frideswide, the misty, original founder,--King’s daughter, virgin,
martyr, saint,--and, with its newly revealed Norman crypt, which
perhaps held the University chest in the beginning, representative of
Oxford’s piety and generosity. On the east, in the High Street,
University College and St. Mary’s and Brasenose speak clearly, although
falsely, of King Alfred. There, by St. Peter’s in the East, was the old
east gate; and in sight of these is Merton, the fount of the collegiate
idea. On the north, in Cornmarket Street, St. Michael’s marks the place
of the north gate, and while it is one of the oldest, is by far the
oldest-looking place in Oxford, rising up always to our surprise, like a
piece of substantial night left by the dark ages, yet clothed with green
in June. On the west, the Castle tower, twin made with St. Michael’s by
the first Norman lord of Oxford, lies by the old west gate; and the
quiet, monstrous mound beyond recalls the days of King Alfred’s
daughter’s supremacy in Mercia. At Carfax itself there is still a St.
Martin’s church, a descendant of the one whose bells in the Middle Ages
and again in the seventeenth century, called the city to arms against
the University, but long ago deprived of its insolent height of tower,
because the citizens pelted the scholars therefrom.
Moved by the presence of a city whose strange beauty was partly
interpreted from these vigorous hieroglyphics, mediæval and later men,
who had the advantage of living before history was invented, framed for
it a divine or immensely ancient origin. Even kings, or such as quite
certainly existed, were deemed unworthy to be the founders. We believe
now that the first mention of Oxford was as an inconsiderable
[Illustration: ST. GILES’S, LOOKING TOWARDS ST. MARY MAGDALEN (SOUTH)
Some picturesque houses on the left lead to the entrance of St. John’s
College, seen through the trees. Farther on appears the tower of the
Church of St. Mary Magdalen in Cornmarket. The mass to the extreme right
above the cab shelter is part of the west side of St. Giles’s and the
houses surrounding the Taylor Institution and new Ashmolean Museum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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