Oxford (England) -- Description and travel; University of Oxford
How he would walk! with what an air, an effluence, humble, and of
consequence withal! Half the village dallied among their flowers or
beehives to see him going. His long staff was held a foot from the upper
end, which almost entered his beard. He bore it, not airily with
twirling and fantastic motion, as our younger generation likes to do,
but solemnly, making it work, and leaning on it as if it were a sceptre,
a pillar, a younger brother. His eyes appeared to study the ground; yet
indeed all that was to be seen and much that is commonly invisible lay
within their sway. It was said he kept eyes in his pockets. His shanks
were of the extreme tenuity that seems no more capable of weariness than
of being diminished. Returning or setting forth, especially when seen
against the sky at sunset or dawn, he was a portent rather than a man.
His person was an emblem of human warfaring on earth--a hieroglyph--a
monument. His movements were of epic significance. His beard did not
merely wag; it transacted great matters. In setting out he himself said
he never contemplated return; it was unnecessary; at most it was one of
several possibilities. Yet had he a big laugh that came from his beard
like a bell from a grey tower. He would even sing as he walked, and was
the sole appreciator of his own rendering of “The All Souls’ Mallard,”
in a broken, grim baritone.
All day we walked along an ancient Oxfordshire road. It was the most
roundabout and kindly way towards our end, and so disguised our purpose
that we forgot it. The road curved not merely as a highway does.
Demurring, nicely distinguishing between good and better, rashly
advancing straight, coyly meandering, it had fallen in love with its own
foibles, and its progress was not to be measured by miles. At one loop
(where the four arms of a battered signpost all pointed to--nowhere) the
first man who trod this way must have paused to think, or not to think,
and have lost all aim save perambulation. So it stole through the land
without arresting the domesticities of the quiet hills. Often it was not
shut out from the fields by hedge or fence or bank. For some leagues it
became a footpath--its second childhood--“as though a rose should shut
and be a bud again”--with grass and flowers unavoidable under foot and
floating briers and hops overhead. In places the hedges had united and
unmade the road. From every part of it some church could be seen: Philip
would sometimes enter in, having some faith in the efficacy of reverence
offered by stealth on these uncanonical holy days. On our way he
sometimes paused, where bees made a wise hum in glowing gardens; or
where the corn-shocks looked like groups of women covered by their
yellow hair, as the sun ascended; or where the eye slumbered, and yet
not senselessly or in vain, amidst a rich undistinguished landscape,
made unreal and remote by mist; and he would whisper an oath or a line
of Theocritus or a self-tormenting speech--“Six hundred years ago
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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