Oxford (England) -- History; University of Oxford -- History
It is the Oxford, again, of the Tory and High Churchman of the old
school; the home of the scholar and the gentleman, the Wellesleys, the
Cannings, the Grenvilles and the Stanleys. But the Wesleys call her Alma
Mater also, and, not less, Newman. Methodism equally with the High
Church movement originated here. Old as the nation, yet ever new, with
all the vitality of each generation's youth reacting on the sober wisdom
of its predecessor, Oxford has passed through all these and many other
stages of history, and the phases of her past existence have left their
marks upon her, in thought, in architecture and in tradition. To connect
events with the traces they have left, to illustrate the buildings of
Oxford by her history, and her history by her buildings, has been the
ideal which I have set before myself in this book. Let our traveller
then at length descend the hill and passing over Magdalen Bridge,
beneath the grey tower of ever-changing beauty, the bell-tower of
Magdalen, enter upon the "stream-like windings of that glorious street,"
the High.
So, over Shotover, down a horse path through the thick forest the bands
of mediæval scholars used to come at the beginning of each term, and
wend their way across the moor to the east gate of the city. There is no
gate to stop you now, no ford, no challenge of sentinels on the walls.
The bell-towers of S. Frideswide and Osney have long been levelled to
the dust, but the bells of Christ Church and Magdalen greet you.
But not altogether unfortunate, though perhaps with less time to
ruminate, will he be who first approaches Oxford by means of the
railway. If he is wise, he will choose at Paddington a seat on the off
side of the carriage, facing the engine. After leaving Radley the train
runs past low-lying water-meadows, willow-laden, yellow with buttercups,
purple with clover and the exquisite fritillary, and passing the
reservoir ere it runs into the station, which occupies the site of Osney
Abbey, it gives the observant traveller a splendid view of the town; of
Tom Tower, close at hand, and Merton Tower; of the spires of the
Cathedral and S. Aldate's; of S. Mary's and All Saints'; of Radcliffe's
Dome and the dainty Tower of Magdalen further away; of Lincoln Spire and
S. Michael's Tower, and of S. Martin's at Carfax. And at last, very near
at hand, the old fragment of the Castle:
"There, watching high the least alarms,
The rough, rude fortress gleams afar
Like some bold veteran, grey in arms
And marked with many a seamy scar."
Of the approaches to Oxford so much may be said; and as to the time when
it is most fit to visit her, all times are good. But best of all are the
summer months. In the spring or early summer, when the nightingales are
singing in Magdalen walks and the wild flowers
[Illustration: Magdalen Tower from Addison's Walk]
spring in Bagley Woods, when the meadows are carpeted with purple and
gold:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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