Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London LifeKirwan, Daniel Joseph
History
Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London Life
Kirwan, Daniel Joseph
London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Social life and customs
The Temple Pier is reached at last. We pass through an arched gateway
at the bottom of a narrow street opening on the Thames. This spot is
more historic even than Westminster Abbey. There before us is the
Church of the Temple, seven hundred years old and black with time. All
the ground around us belonged, in the old bygone days, to the Knights
of the Order of the Temple. Now the place is the resort of attorneys
and barristers, and in it legal people have chambers. Right in the
shadows of the old Norman towers and battlements of the ancient church,
Jack Cade's followers rose from a swinish, drunken sleep to turn their
weapons against each other, hundreds falling in the conflict.
[Sidenote: DARK BLUE AND MAGENTA.]
Here in these chambers resided Chaucer, Gower, Spenser, Clarendon,
Coke, Plowden, Selden, Beaumont, Congreve, Wycherley, Edmund Burke,
Cowper, Samuel Johnson, Oliver Goldsmith, Pope, Eldon, Erskine, and
others equally famous. Here they slept, joked, read, ate, and drank.
Surely, if this ground be not hallowed, none other is. In company
with a well-known American journalist, Mr. George Wilkes, I find my
way to the Press boat, which is lying at the foot of the Temple Pier,
off the Embankment. She is a long, double-ender, with a red streak
on the upper part of her keel, and a black hull. Her steam funnel is
made to be lowered at the base, working on hinges, when going under a
bridge. Like all Thames boats to-day, there are two flags hoisted on
her twin flag-staffs--the American and English. There is no awning, no
upper-deck, to shade us from the August sun, which is now beginning to
burn with an intensity peculiarly un-English.
There are, perhaps, about fifty persons on the boat, of whom two-thirds
are English; the remainder Americans. They are not all newspaper men,
though it was understood, before the tickets were sold, that none but
newspaper men would be allowed on board.
The Englishmen wear blue scarfs and bows; the Americans sport the
magenta all over their clothes. The sun falls on the broad, muddy river
in slanting beams of kindling gold, making the old warehouses on both
banks of the stream, with their yellow brick gables, to stand out in
bold relief.
Above us is London Bridge, lowering in its immensity, and to the
right is Billingsgate Market and Paul's wharf. Close upon our stern
is Blackfriars Bridge, the Temple Gardens, Kings College--a massive,
dirty gray structure, running along the river bank; Somerset House, the
government building where all the clerical work of the administration
is done, and where well-fed and well-paid clerks enjoy sinecures of the
kind which the Barnacle family were so fond of. Before us is Waterloo
Bridge, Cecil, Duke, Salisbury, Surrey, Buckingham, Villiers, and other
streets called after the mansions once inhabited by the favorites of
Charles, James, and William of Blessed Memory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account