Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London LifeKirwan, Daniel Joseph
History
Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London Life
Kirwan, Daniel Joseph
London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Social life and customs
At a little before two o'clock the Sunflower steams off on her journey
up the river. The course of the steamer is impeded at almost every foot
by small craft of all descriptions, en route to Putney and the race.
We pass, on our way down, Waterloo Bridge, Charing Cross Bridge, with
its huge railroad trains thundering over our heads, bound to Dover,
with passengers for the Continent; Westminster Bridge and the Houses of
Parliament, with their gilt vanes, towers, and battlements glistening
in the sun; Lambeth Bridge and Lambeth Palace, the residence of the
Primate of England, with its gardens and red brick towers; St. Thomas
Hospitals, in process of construction; Millbank Penitentiary, a gloomy,
six-sided fortress of crime; Vauxhall Bridge; Pimlico Pier, where
we stop a moment; the Nine Elms Road, Chelsea Bridge, and Chelsea
Hospital, where a number of frisky, one-legged and one-armed veterans
are disporting themselves on its smooth, grassy lawn; the Botanic
Garden on the right, and the green fields and trees and silvery lake of
Battersea Park on the left; Albert Bridge, Cadogan Pier, Chelsea Pier,
Battersea Bridge, and the Cremorne Gardens, with its kiosks, captive
balloon, statues, shady walks, fountains, and flower beds; and now we
are opposite Fulham and Brompton, where the splendid and extravagant
Formosas of the metropolis enjoy their ill-gotten gains in pleasant
villas and cozy little houses.
We are now getting away from the thickly populated districts of London,
and the bridges that cross the river are fewer and farther between,
and, being generally of wood, are more rickety.
During the entire passage we are continually stopped by small craft of
all kinds. The river is alive with them.
[Sidenote: ON THE TOWING PATH.]
There are huge yawls, of broad bottom and clumsy construction,
containing family parties, with their provender--bread, cheese, and
beer, ham pies, and beef pies, kidneys and tongues--spread out in the
bottom of the boats on white cloths or in open baskets; there are long
shells with crews of eight and four, carrying coxswains; single sculls,
double sculls, wherries, watermen's boats, small steam launches,
lighters, watermen's barges, small sloops and schooners with dirty
sails and unseemly rudders, pleasure yachts, and craft of such queer
shape and rig as are never seen on our American rivers.
All are bent on pleasure, and in many of the boats they are singing
the slang songs of the London streets; and now and then are warbled
the cheering chants of the boatmen immortalized by Dibdin and Taylor,
the water poets. A couple of miles more and we are in sight of Putney
Bridge, which towers aloft, rickety, worn, and decayed, thousands
crossing to and fro on its frail planks to get positions for the race.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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