Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London LifeKirwan, Daniel Joseph
History
Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London Life
Kirwan, Daniel Joseph
London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Social life and customs
And now the full grandeur of a sight such as is seldom or ever seen
bursts upon every one on board the Press boat, and even the Londoners
admit, in an easy way, that the Derby Day is eclipsed by the great
number of people who line the banks of the river for miles on the
Surrey and Middlesex shores.
To the left, above the old bridge, is the village of Putney, with its
narrow streets and noisome lanes, its green fields, festering pools,
eccentric-looking mansions and houses of an humbler kind, the steeples
of St. John's and St. Mary's, with their quaint clock-towers; and to
the left, on the Middlesex bank, are Fulham and the Bishop of London's
palace, the long grass on the Bishop's lawn waving in the breeze, and
upon whose surface were stretched pic-nickers eating and drinking.
The Star and Garter at Putney, a famous hostelry, where the crew
of Harvard had lodged when they first came to England, was covered
all over its surface toward the river with the flags of America and
England. The old wooden balconies were crowded with ladies wearing
favors in their bosoms; the passages and lanes leading to the
towing-path on the river swarmed with foot passengers, all having one
determination and one sole object. The "Bell Inn," a rival to the Star
and Garter, was also glorious with colors, and all the house-owners
for miles along the river had let their windows and seats on their
roofs for various sums, varying from five shillings to five guineas per
head.
One generous American "lady" had advertised in the _Times_ that she
would let seats in her windows to her countrymen at the modest price of
two guineas per head, and she found that she had not half room enough
for her compatriots. An innkeeper on the towing-path had let the front
of his house for £40 to a speculator, who realized a profit of £25 on
the venture. The Leander Boat-house, belonging to a well-known boating
club, had a scaffolding erected fronting the river for the members and
their ladies, which was covered with Union Jack bunting, the structure
being the place where the Oxford crew had housed their race-boat.
Close to it was the boat-house of the London Rowing Club, an
association of four hundred gentlemen, who had proved themselves
warm and steady friends of the Harvard crew since their arrival
here. The Harvard boat was housed here, and the staging and platform
were decorated with American colors. A number of ladies, wearing red
rosettes, were seated upon this balcony.
A few yards below was the modest stone house where the Harvard crew
were sleeping two hours before the race. This place was enclosed by
a stone wall, breast high, and shaded by green trees. Platforms were
erected behind this wall, and on them I noticed seated the American
Minister, Mr. Motley, the Hon. S.S. Cox, "Tom Hughes," Charles Reade,
the novelist--a bluff-looking, hearty Englishman, in gray clothes--and
a number of ladies, just before the race began.
[Sidenote: A FRIGHTFUL JAM.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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