Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan ArchitectureBell, Gertrude Lowthian
History
Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan Architecture
Bell, Gertrude Lowthian
Iraq -- Antiquities; Mosques; Ukheidar
The palace of Ukhaiḍir was practically unknown until the winter of
1908-9, although it had been seen by European travellers as early as the
seventeenth century. Della Valle passed by it in June 1625 on his way
from Baṣrah to Aleppo, and described it as ‘a great ancient fabric,
perfectly square, with thirteen pilasters or round columns on each side
without, and other compartments of arches; within which were many
chambers, with a court of no great bigness and uncovered. The Arabians
call this fabric Casr Chaider. I could not conjecture whether it had
been a palace or temple or castle; but I incline to believe it a palace
rather than anything else.’[1] Pedro Teixeira’s account is doubtful. He
says:[2] ‘At eleven in the morning we came to a dry channel which in
winter they say has much water, and I thought it likely by the nature of
its situation and capaciousness. Over it, on a rising ground, is still
an ancient square fort, with twelve bastions, three on each side, made
of burnt brick and lime, strong and well built. Without it, at about
sixty paces distance, is a small Alcoran, or Tower, ten cubits high,
tho’ it appears to have been higher, of the same structure, all decay’d
with age; yet it appears to be a royal fabrick by its goodness and the
place it stands in, where it could not be raised without mighty cost and
much labour, and difficulty. It was done by an Arabian king, grandfather
to Xeque Mahamed Eben Raxet, whom I said before I was carried to see, to
secure the caravans going that way before the Turks possess’d themselves
of Bagdat and Bazora. The Arabs call it Alcayzar or Kayzar, which
signifies a palace or Cesar’s House, for so they call all that belong to
kings and princes. This they reckon the half-way from Bazora to Mexat
Aly, whither we were going. We found some small wells in this channel,
the water of them clear and fresh, but of an intolerable ill scent, yet
necessity prevail’d.’ The only item in this description which connects
Teixeira’s palace with Ukhaiḍir is the name. Teixeira reached Meshhed
‘Ali (Nedjef) six days after he had passed by Alcayzar and he gives the
situation of the palace as half-way between Baṣrah and Nedjef, whereas
Ukhaiḍir lies to the north-west of Nedjef. There is no ‘Alcoran’, i.e.
minaret, at Ukhaiḍir, neither could the building be described, even by
the least careful observer, as a square fort with three bastions on each
side. I am therefore inclined to suppose that there is another ruin
called Ukhaiḍir further to the south. We need not linger over the
derivation which he assigns to the name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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