Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1) — John Shaqi
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)Trollope, Frances Milton
History
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)
Trollope, Frances Milton
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The contrast furnished by the deep-set eyes, and the fine severe
expression of some of these consecrated brows, to the light, airy
elegance of the pretty women around them, was sufficiently striking;
and, together with the mellow light of the shaded windows, and the
lofty spaciousness of the noble church, formed a spectacle highly
picturesque and impressive.
After the sermon was over, and while the gaily-habited congregation
fluttered away through the different doors like so many butterflies
hastening to meet returning sunshine, we amused ourselves by wandering
round the church. It is magnificently large for a parish church; but,
excepting in some of the little chapels, we found not much to admire.
That very unrighteous old churchman, the Abbé Dubois, has a fine
monument there, restored from Les Petits Augustins; and a sort of
marble medallion, bearing the head of the immortal Corneille--immortal
despite M. Victor Hugo--is also restored, and placed against one of
the heavy columns of, I think, the centre aisle. But we paused longest
in a little chapel behind the altar--not the middle one, with its
well-managed glory of crimson light, though that is very beautiful;
but in the one to the right of it, which contains a sculptured
Calvary. It is, I believe, only one of _les stations_, of which twelve
are to be found in different parts of the church; but it has a
charm--seen as we saw it, with a strong effect of accidental light,
bringing forward the delicate figure of the adoring Magdalene, and
leaving the Saviour in the dark shadow and repose of death--that sets
at defiance all the connoisseurship of art, and taking from you all
faculty to judge, leaves only the power to feel. Under these
circumstances, whether quite delusive or not I hardly know, this group
appeared to us one of exceeding beauty.
The high altar of St. Roch, and the extremity of the carpeted space
enclosed round it, is most lavishly, beautifully, and fragrantly
adorned with flowers of the choicest kind, all flourishing in the
fullest bloom in boxes and vases. It is the only instance I remember
in which the perfume of this most fair and holy decoration actually
pervaded the church. They certainly offer the sweetest incense that
can be found to breathe its grateful life and spirit out on any altar;
and were it not for the graceful swinging of the censers, which very
particularly pleases my eye, I would recommend to the Roman Catholic
church henceforth an economy of their precious gums, and advise them
to offer the incense of flowers in their stead.
Before we left the church, about a hundred and fifty boys and girls,
from ten to fourteen years of age, assembled to be catechised by a
young priest, who received them behind the Lady Chapel. His manner was
familiar, caressing and kind, and his waving hair fell about his ears
like the picture of a young St. John.
LETTER IX.
Literature of the Revolutionary School.--Its low estimation
in France.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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