Produced by John Hagerson, Carlo Traverso, and Distributed Proofreaders PARIS AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS; OR A Sketch of the French Capital, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION, WITH RESPECT TO SCIENCES, LITERATURE, ARTS, RELIGION, EDUCATION, MANNERS, AND AMUSEMENTS; COMPRISING ALSO A correct Account of the most remarkable National Establishments and Public Buildings. In a Series of Letters, WRITTEN BY AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER, DURING THE YEARS 1801-2, TO A FRIEND IN LONDON. * * * * * _Ipsâ varietate tentamus efficere, ut alia aliis, quædem fortasse omnibus placeant. PLIN. Epist._ * * * * * VOL. I LONDON 1803 ADVERTISEMENT. In the course of the following production, the Reader will meet with several references to a Plan of Paris, which it had been intended to prefix to the work; but that intention having been frustrated by the rupture between the two countries, in consequence of which the copies for the whole of the Edition have been detained at Calais, it is hoped that this apology will be accepted for the omission. CONTENTS. VOLUME FIRST. New Organization of the National Institute INTRODUCTION LETTER I. On the ratification of the preliminary treaty of peace, the author leaves London for Paris--He arrives at Calais on the 16th of October, 1801--Apparent effect of the peace--After having obtained a passport, he proceeds to Paris, in company with a French naval officer. LETTER II. Journey from Calais to Paris--Improved state of agriculture--None of the French gun-boats off Boulogne moored with chains at the time of the attack--St. Denis--General sweep made, in 1793, among the sepultures in that abbey--Arrival at Paris--Turnpikes now established throughout Prance--Custom-house scrutiny. LETTER III. Objects which first strike the observer on arriving at Paris after an absence of ten or twelve years--Tumult in the streets considerably diminished since the revolution--No liveries seen--Streets less dangerous than formerly to pedestrians--Visits paid to different persons by the author--Price of lodgings nearly doubled since 1789 --The author takes apartments in a private house. LETTER IV. Climate of Paris--_Thermolampes_ or stoves which afford light and heat on an economical plan--Sword whose hilt was adorned with the _Pitt_ diamond, and others of considerable value, presented to the Chief Consul. LETTER V. Plan on which these letters are written.