Paris: With Pen and Pencil: Its People and Literature, Its Life and BusinessBartlett, D. W. (David W.)
History
Paris: With Pen and Pencil: Its People and Literature, Its Life and Business
Bartlett, D. W. (David W.)
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs
While wandering one day though the Rue d'Anjou St. Honore, I came
unexpectedly upon one of the most beautiful chapels my eyes ever
beheld--the _Chapelle Expiatore_. It was originally a burial-ground in
connection with the Madeleine church, but was afterward set apart to
commemorate the sad fate of the elder Bourbons. When Louis XVI. and his
queen were executed, in 1793, they were obscurely buried on this spot. A
friend, M. Descloseaux, at once cared for their remains, else they would
have been lost amid other victims of the bloody revolution. It is a
singular fact, that Danton, Herbert, and Robespierre were also buried
in this same place, together with the Swiss Guard.
An early entry in the parish records of the Madeleine, still shows to
any one who has the curiosity to see, the plainness with which the queen
was buried. It is as follows: "_Paid seven francs for a coffin for the
Widow Capet_."
M. Descloseaux watched carefully over the graves of the king and queen,
purchased the place containing their bodies, and converted it into an
orchard, with the view of shielding them from the fury of the populace.
His plan was successful, and it is said that he sent every year a
beautiful bouquet of flowers to the duchess d'Angouleme, which were
gathered from the ground beneath which her royal parents were sleeping.
The restoration came, and the orchard was purchased from M. Descloseaux.
The bodies were transferred to St. Denis, with great pomp. The earth
which had surrounded the coffins was preserved, as also were all remains
of the Swiss Guards, and buried on the spot. Over it an expiatory chapel
was built, with buildings adjoining, the whole forming a very beautiful
structure. An inscription on the front informs the gazer of the
principal facts I have enumerated. The adjoining garden is filled with
cypresses.
The interior of the chapel is simple, but gives a pleasant impression.
It contains two statues, one of Louis XVI., and the other of Marie
Antoinette. Each is supported by an angel, and on the pedestal of the
king his will is inscribed in letters of gold, upon a black marble slab.
On the pedestal of the queen's statue are extracts, executed in a like
manner, from her last letter to Mme. Elizabeth.
There are several niches in the chapel which contain very fine
candelebra, and on a bas-relief the funeral procession to St. Denis is
represented.
I was struck while here (as indeed I was in many other places) with the
fact, that the whole past history of Paris and France is written in her
chapels and churches. The stranger cannot, if he would, shut out the
fact from his sight. It glares in upon him from every street. The
revolutions of France have imprinted themselves upon Paris in
ineffaceable characters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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