Paris: With Pen and Pencil: Its People and Literature, Its Life and BusinessBartlett, D. W. (David W.)
History
Paris: With Pen and Pencil: Its People and Literature, Its Life and Business
Bartlett, D. W. (David W.)
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs
On the left of the Savior, some of the early martyrs are painted--St.
Catherine and St. Cecelia. The Wandering Jew's ghostly form is upon the
canvas, and, to come down to a later day, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael
Angelo, and Dante each occupies a place in the mammoth picture.
The choir of the Madeleine forms a half-circle, and is very richly
ornamented. The great altar is splendidly sculptured. The principal
group represents the Magdalene in a rapturous posture, borne to heaven
on the wings of angels. A tunic is wrapped around her body, and the long
hair with which she wiped her Savior's feet. This group of sculpture
alone cost one hundred and fifty thousand francs.
I have thus given the reader a sketch of the most gorgeous church in
Paris, that he may get an idea of the style of religion which obtains at
present there. It is like this church. It is pretentious, imposing, in
bad taste, without simplicity and a real sanctity. I was disgusted with
the Madeleine from the moment I knew it to be a church. At first I saw
it only as a fine building--an imitation of the Parthenon--and I was
struck with admiration. But when I was told that it was a temple for the
warship of God, I was shocked, and still more so when I entered it. The
interior, as a collection of fine paintings and statues, as a specimen
of gorgeous Gothic architecture, is one of the best in the world; but I
would as soon think of attending public worship amid the nakedness of
the Louvre, as in the Madeleine. Had Napoleon's idea been carried out,
and this modern Parthenon been dedicated to Mars, it would adorn Paris,
and add much to the pleasure of the stranger; but as it is now, it only
serves to illustrate one of the weak points in the French character.
The genuine Parisian is so fond of appearance, that he cares little for
the substance. The churches of Paris, therefore, abound with all that
can impress the eye, however repugnant to a refined taste. For I dare
to hold, that the French love not the true refinement in matters of
religion. Having little vital piety, it is impossible for them to judge
of church architecture. Solemn old St. Paul's in London, will always
linger in my memory as a fit temple of the living God. Its impressive
grandeur contrasts strongly with the rich magnificence of the Madeleine.
The latter inspires only admiration, as the figure of a Greek warrior,
but St. Paul's inspires awe; and that is just the difference between
them.
* * * * *
CHAPEL OF ST. FERDINAND.
The interior of this chapel is one of the most beautiful in Paris. It
was the scene of the death of the duke of Orleans in 1842. He left Paris
in the forenoon of the 13th of July, in an open carriage, with but one
postillion, intending to call upon the royal family at Neuilly, and
proceed to the camp at St. Omer. As he approached Porte Maillot, the
horses became frightened. The driver began to lose his control of the
horses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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