If the axiom that architecture is the expression of manner and morals
was ever proved, it was certainly after the insurrection of 1830, during
the present reign of the house of Orleans. As all the old fortunes
are diminishing in France, the majestic mansions of our ancestors are
constantly being demolished and replaced by species of phalansteries, in
which the peers of July occupy the third floor above some newly
enriched empirics on the lower floors. A mixture of styles is confusedly
employed. As there is no longer a real court or nobility to give the
tone, there is no harmony in the production of art. Never, on the other
hand, has architecture discovered so many economical ways of imitating
the real and the solid, or displayed more resources, more talent, in
distributing them. Propose to an architect to build upon the garden
at the back of an old mansion, and he will run you up a little Louvre
overloaded with ornament. He will manage to get in a courtyard, stables,
and if you care for it, a garden. Inside the house he will accommodate a
quantity of little rooms and passages. He is so clever in deceiving the
eye that you think you will have plenty of space; but it is only a nest
of small rooms, after all, in which a ducal family has to turn itself
about in the space that its own bakehouse formerly occupied.
The hotel of the Comtesse Laginska, rue de la Pepiniere, is one of these
creations, and stands between court and garden. On the right, in the
court, are the kitchens and offices; to the left the coachhouse and
stables. The porter’s lodge is between two charming portes-cocheres. The
chief luxury of the house is a delightful greenhouse contrived at the
end of a boudoir on the ground-floor which opens upon an admirable
suite of reception rooms. An English philanthropist had built this
architectural bijou, designed the garden, added the greenhouse, polished
the doors, bricked the courtyard, painted the window-frames green,
and realized, in short, a dream which resembled (proportions excepted)
George the Fourth’s Pavilion at Brighton. The inventive and industrious
Parisian workmen had moulded the doors and window-frames; the ceilings
were imitated from the middle-ages or those of a Venetian palace; marble
veneering abounded on the outer walls. Steinbock and Francois Souchet
had designed the mantel-pieces and the panels above the doors; Schinner
had painted the ceilings in his masterly manner. The beauties of the
staircase, white as a woman’s arm, defied those of the hotel Rothschild.
On account of the riots and the unsettled times, the cost of this folly
was only about eleven hundred thousand francs,--to an Englishman a mere
nothing. All this luxury, called princely by persons who do not know
what real princes are, was built in the garden of the house of a
purveyor made a Croesus by the Revolution, who had escaped to Brussels
and died there after going into bankruptcy. The Englishman died in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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