Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and AfootThayer, George B. (George Burton)
History
Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and Afoot
Thayer, George B. (George Burton)
Bicycle touring; United States -- Description and travel
"Why don't you stop off at Shoshone and go down and see the falls? They
are only twenty-five miles from the station," said one of the Union
Pacific officials with whom I became acquainted at Denver. This was
just at dark the next night after leaving Portland. I had forgotten
what little I knew of those falls, excepting their name, and had no
idea of going so near them on this trip, but I left the train at 3.30
the next morning, and about sunrise started out due south. "I suppose
there are ranches along the road," said I to the stage-driver at this
end of the route. "No, not one; and you can't get any water till you
get there," said he. So with a bottle of water, which did not last
much more than half the distance, I rode along over the slightly
undulating lava beds, which are mostly covered with a few feet of
sand and with sage brush, but which occasionally come to the surface
in broken masses of dark brown, perforated, metallic sounding rocks.
It certainly was not a very interesting ride of four or five hours,
for jack rabbits in great numbers and an occasional gopher were
the only living things I saw, and in looking across the same level,
treeless country, far ahead, I had begun to wonder where the Snake
River could possibly be, when suddenly I heard the roar of the falls,
and came to the edge of a cañon perhaps three hundred feet deep. The
rocks of this cañon, from top to bottom, are composed of this lava,
and it is formed in layers from twenty to thirty feet thick, looking
as if the lava had, at different times, overflowed the country to
that depth, which it really had. But what was my astonishment when
I found, on inquiry, that these layers in some places number as many
as thirty, and that their depth in many places was several thousand
feet. For instance, the Columbia River, which I had so recently
seen, has cut its way through lava beds three and four thousand feet
thick. And this is not all. These immensely thick beds of lava not
only cover the entire surface of Idaho, but also of nearly the whole
of Oregon and Washington Territory, and parts of California, Nevada,
and Montana. When it is stated that the entire surface covered by
this lava is not less than two hundred thousand square miles, forty
times as large as Connecticut, one can only faintly comprehend the
statement, and many may not believe it; but the fact remains. And to
me the thought that I had been allowed to ride over a portion, a very
small portion of this lava that ages ago burst out through some immense
fissure or great vent in the earth's surface, this thought alone paid
me for the hours of thirst endured. The simple fact that I have seen
this lava bed has left on my mind one of the strongest impressions
of the whole trip; an impression, if not exactly taken on dry plate,
yet that was left on a very dry pate. Still no one need to come out
into this country to see the effect of some ancient eruption. The
hills at Meriden, Conn., and East and West Rock at New Haven, as
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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