Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and AfootThayer, George B. (George Burton)
History
Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and Afoot
Thayer, George B. (George Burton)
Bicycle touring; United States -- Description and travel
well as Mount Tom near Holyoke, Mass., hills that I have climbed
and ridden over since the bicycle enlarged my means of traveling,
these are all lava formations.
There is a fine view of the cañon, looking up the river towards
the east for a couple of miles as you go. Then a zigzag road down
into the cañon, and half a mile below are the falls. The ferry is
just above the falls, and I had to wait some time there, before the
ferryman, at the hotel just below the falls, on the opposite side
of the river, saw me. The ride across in a leaky row-boat--there is
a cable ferry-boat for the stage--with broken oars and oarlocks,
only a little way above the cloud of mist, was not the safest one
I have ever taken, but with my wheel lying flatwise over the edges
of the boat, we crossed all right and I had soon climbed out upon
a projecting point in the precipice below the hotel, and obtained
a magnificent view of the falls, which are but little inferior to
Niagara, far ahead of any other falls I have seen in the West.
Snake River flows down through the cañon with scarcely a ripple, until
at the falls it is broken up by half a dozen or more of rocky islands,
and after plunging into pretty cascades for a short distance, it leaps
over the cliff, which curves in a little, and falls two hundred and
ten feet down into the cañon, there not far from six hundred feet
deep. Although the perpendicular fall was greater by fifty feet than
at Niagara, the volume of water is less, but there is the dark cañon
above and below the falls that adds greatly to the impression one
receives. Eagles were seen soaring around in the skies in almost every
direction, and on a huge boulder just above the falls in the middle
of the river, was a nest of young ones being fed by the parent bird.
After spending three or four hours there, I crossed the river again,
and climbed up out of the cañon and started back. I took a larger
bottle filled with cool spring water--the location of that spring,
as well as many others in this Western country, I shall never
forget. I can, in imagination, see them now, almost every one of
them. The water, of course, got warm, and before dark I had drained
every drop of it. There was no riding after dark, and for miles I
pushed the machine along in the sandy rut, thinking of little else
than that tank of ice-water in the station I was trying to reach. I
might mention, as an instance of how similar situations recall mental
impressions, that in crossing the plains from Laramie, the song of
"Tit Willow" was continually running through my mind, and for days
I could do nothing to rid myself of what came to be very unpleasant,
but after reaching California I scarcely hummed the tune once. I was
not troubled with the song at all after leaving the sand and sage
brush, but with the first return to the sage brush, the tune I had
not hummed or thought of for weeks came back, pursuing me with all
its unpleasant monotony--the smell of the sage revived it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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