In Bastia we can see many excellent examples of the Corsican method of
building houses. The houses are very tall, and consist of a huge number
of flats, with one or more families in every flat. When a Corsican
builds a house, he never thinks of occupying the whole of it himself.
He lives on the third or fourth floor, and lets the rest of the
building out to other tenants. On the ground-floor there is probably a
shop. On the top-floor there will be a washerwoman or a gardener. The
higher you live, the less rent you have to pay, so that many different
classes of society are often gathered together under the same roof.
Sometimes the various stories are not let for rent, but are sold
outright, and in that case there may be as many landlords as there
are flats. In Bastia some of these tall, dirty houses contain over 500
people. They are rarely less than five to six stories high, and from
six to nine windows broad. It is just the same in Calvi, Bonifacio, and
the other Corsican towns. Even in the villages a man rarely has a whole
house to himself. Every room in every flat is about as dirty as it can
well manage to be, owing to the lack of a proper water-supply. The
only clean thing in the houses, and to the credit of the peasant let
it be mentioned, is the bed-linen; that is always as spotless as the
visitor could desire. In the rooms there is but little furniture of any
kind; in the poorest houses there is often an insufficient supply of
beds, and the men-folk sleep on the floor in the clothes they have worn
all day long. The kitchen contains small stoves, which are used for
cooking; when the cooking is finished, the fire is allowed to go out.
Only very rarely are fires used for warmth; the houses are therefore
cold and uncomfortable, and as each room has a number of doors that
never fit, they are very draughty. The floors are usually of tiles,
or even of the bare earth; wooden floors are not common; the chimneys
generally smoke. To get from one story to the next, stone staircases
are employed. The only light they obtain comes from openings pierced
in the outer walls. As the stairs belong to everybody in general, and
therefore to nobody in particular, they are rarely repaired, and are
rather dangerous to those who are not used to them. A description
of a house in Ajaccio, written by a lady who has travelled much in
Corsica, will serve to give an idea of many of the dwellings occupied
by the poor: “The house consisted of two tiny chambers, the inner one
a mere cupboard some 8 by 10 feet, which only received light from the
outer room by the communicating door; this acted as bedroom and kitchen
combined. On the narrow bed lay four loaves; a small kitchen range and
a table crammed with cooking-pots left scarcely space to turn round.
In the bigger room stood two beds, on one of which lay what at first
sight we took for a crumpled patchwork quilt, but which turned out to
be a sick grandmother swathed in rags. The table was occupied by some
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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