Somewhere about the year 1000 a number of feudal lords, or “signori,”
leagued themselves together and set up a capital at Corté, the centre
of the island, and in the very heart of the mountains. What the place
looked like in those days we have no means of knowing, for in this, as
in most of the other towns of the island, there is nothing belonging
to the remote past to remind us of very early events in the history of
the land. Corté is lonely enough still, and you may wander for days
in the great granite hills without meeting a single human being. The
circle of gorges, the ravines, and the mountains present to us the
same features that they presented to the feudal lords, and account for
the choice of the position of the feudal capital, and for the part
which the town has played in the military history of Corsica. Corté
is a proud and heroic town. Around it have gathered numerous stories
of gallant attacks upon the grim and frowning citadel that has been
both won and lost by Corsicans, Genoese, and French. The men of this
proud hill-fortress have throughout the centuries ever been faithful to
their country, and willing to shed their blood for it. They are worthy
descendants of a people that honours only the warriors that have led
them to the field, a people whose only literature consists of wild
songs of war, and chants that call aloud for vengeance on oppressors.
The women have at all times been as true and as valiant as the men.
They are, as they have always been, noted for their beauty. At the time
when the hand of the Genoese lay heavy upon their land they vowed never
to marry, that they might not give birth to slaves.
Corté is connected by rail with Ajaccio, and there are probably few
visitors to the island who do not, during their stay, forsake the
orange-trees and the palms upon the coast to visit the barren hills
where the feudal capital once stood. Preferring the road to the rail,
I made the journey from the sea to the mountains by bicycle, walking
the greater part of the way and freewheeling the rest, ascending and
descending continually the steep granite waves which rise and fall from
one end of the island to the other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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