Mules are not only ridden; they are harnessed to many different kinds
of vehicles. The market-cart is not much more than a flat platform
on wheels, with a kind of bridge raised over the middle on which two
people can sit. The timber-carts that carry the logs from the forests
to the sea are provided with huge wooden brakes. To put on the brake, a
man hangs on to a lever with all his weight. Very often, when the mule
refuses to halt at the word of command, the driver applies the brake as
tightly as possible, and so forces the animal to stop. He finds this
an easier method than that of tugging at the reins, for the mouth of
the mule is hard, and his temper stubborn. Mules are employed to pull
the heavy roller that is used in mending the roads, for in this land
steam-rollers are not known. Mules are also used to draw the diligence,
or omnibus. Railways are very few and far between, and the omnibus
is well patronized for journeys that are beyond a walking distance.
The place of the diligence will some day be taken by the motor-bus.
Already there is one automobile running between Ajaccio and some of
the coast towns. Perhaps the people will not be so very sorry when
the diligence is done away with entirely, for it is a dirty, lumbering
vehicle, though, like all the dirty things in Corsica, exceedingly
quaint and picturesque. In front there is a little space shut off for
the first-class passengers, of whom not more than three can be carried.
The back part is like an ordinary omnibus, but it rarely holds more
than six people. The windows are always closed to keep out the draught.
The travellers are half stifled with the heat, and almost choked with
the dust. They sit with their heads poked down between their shoulders
and their knees drawn up to their chins to avoid banging their heads
against the roof. The mules tear up and down the mountain-sides with
truly remarkable speed, and as the lumbering old coach sways from side
to side, the stranger expects every moment to see it topple over into
the valley below.
In the field on the other side of that thick cactus hedge the mules
are pulling a plough. Though three mules will drag a heavy diligence
up the side of the mountain, it is no uncommon thing to find a dozen
or more of them yoked to the same plough. They take their time over
this kind of work, and do not fly about as they do on the roads. The
peasants walk slowly after them, guiding either the plough or the
mules, quite content to go at a snail’s pace. The Corsican farmers are
not experts. Their vines are badly tended, their seed-potatoes are not
good, and their breeds of sheep and goats are very poor. Of late years
many of them have taken to growing citrons, which, in a good year,
yield them a considerable profit; but owing to frosts that often come
at inconvenient times and destroy the fruit, citron-growing is rather a
risky occupation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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