The coast-line of this region is very beautiful, whether it faces north
or south, to the Atlantic Ocean or the English Channel. On the north
there are great beetling cliffs, with lovely valleys, called "combes,"
running down to the sea between them. In describing the port of
Bideford, Kingsley gives us an admirable idea of North Devon scenery on
the first page of "Westward Ho!": "All who have travelled through the
delicious scenery of North Devon must needs know the little white town
of Bideford, which slopes upwards from its broad tide-river paved with
yellow sands, and many-arched old bridge, where salmon wait for
autumn's floods, toward the pleasant upland on the west. Above the
town the hills close in, cushioned with deep oak woods, through which
juts here and there a crag of fern-fringed slate; below they lower, and
open more and more in softly-rounded knolls and fertile squares of red
and green, till they sink into the wide expanse of hazy flats, rich
salt marshes, and rolling sand-hills, where Torridge joins her sister
Taw, and both together flow quietly toward the broad surges of the bay
and the everlasting thunder of the long Atlantic swell. Pleasantly the
old town stands there, beneath its soft Italian sky, fanned day and
night by the fresh ocean breeze, which forbids alike the keen winter
frosts and the fierce thunder heats of the midland."
A little to the west of Bideford lies the fishing village of Clovelly,
famous for its striking position and the great beauty of its
surroundings. Clovelly lies in the cleft of a tall cliff, and its
single street straggles up and down the steep rock, upon which the
houses are perched in every nook and corner where room to set a
building could be found. All about the place are wooded cliffs, and
for quaint old-world beauty this village is declared to be unmatched
along the whole English coast-line.
Near Torquay, a well-known watering-place of South Devon, is a very
remarkable cave called Kent's Cavern. You gain it by a hole in the
rock, 7 feet wide and only 5 feet high; but inside you find a great
cavern, 600 feet long, with many smaller caves and corridors branching
away through the limestone rock.
This cavern was once the home of cave-men, those long-vanished
inhabitants of our land. This has been proved by searching the floor
of the cave. Deep down were discovered human bones and the remains of
tools and weapons. Mingled with these were the bones of the elephant
and the rhinoceros, the hyena, the bear, and the wolf. The tools and
weapons were of stone, and it is plain that the men who once lived in
the cave brought thither the wild animals they had slain with their
arrows and spears, headed with flint. All this happened a long, long
time ago, for some of the animal remains belong to creatures who have
long since become extinct.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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