"There are legends to tell of this Ferry. The most sinister is of an
awful voice which on wild nights began to peal across the turmoil,
'Boat!' Once a bold ferry-man answered the call, put off his boat, and
rowed into the storm and darkness. Half an hour later he returned with
boat swamping and without a passenger. The boatman's face was ashen
with terror; he was dumb. Next day he died. No boatman, after this
incident, could be prevailed to put off in darkness, so a priest was
summoned from the Holy Holme. With bell and book he raised the
skulking demon. At mid-day there was the voice of storm in the air,
though, mindful of the call of the Master on Galilee, the waters fell
calm. Voices argued with the priest, whose cross, firmly planted by
the edge of the lake, was surrounded by terror-struck lake-men. At the
end of a long altercation the demon released from thrall the soul of
the boatman, and craved for mercy. For its peace, the priest laid the
evil thing in the depths, there to remain until 'dry-shod men walk on
Winander [the lake] and trot their ponies through the solid crags.'"
As we advance into the northern basin of the great lake, the scene
grows in grandeur. "Over a vast plain of water the distant mountains
seem to hang. There are misty indications of level meadows and
woodlands next the water, but the charm lies in the craggy, shaggy
braes and the uprising summits."
The voyage is ended at Ambleside, on the northern shore, where we take
coach along the Rydal road to see some of the best-known parts of
Lakeland, famous not only for their beauty, but also because the great
poet Wordsworth lived there, and wrote of the lovely scenes which
surrounded his home. Our way will take us by Rydal Water into lovely
Grasmere, a sweet valley dotted with tiny lakes and ringed about by
wild and lofty heights.
We pass Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth lived in old age, speed by Rydal
Water, and on into Grasmere, where Wordsworth's grave lies beside the
church, and the Rothay, his favourite stream, murmurs near by.
Beyond Grasmere we toil up the steep Pass of Dunmail, a wild, desolate,
rock-strewn piece of country. At the head of the pass stands a pile of
stones--the Cairn of Dunmail--telling of
"Old unhappy far-off things
And battles long ago."
In far-off days Dunmail was the last King of Cumbria, whose people then
were Picts. Edgar the Saxon came against him to seize the crown, and
of this crown of Cumbria a strange legend is told.
The crown of Dunmail was charmed, and whoever could seize it was
certain to gain the kingdom. So Edgar the Saxon was eager to get it
into his hands. Now, there was a wizard in those days who lived in a
cave among the hills, and he held a master-charm which would make the
magic power of the crown useless. Dunmail sought the cave of the
wizard to slay him, and thus make himself safe in the possession of the
magic crown.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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