In the cities the tea-houses of the grander sort are the scenes of splendid
entertainments. When a Japanese wishes to give a dinner to his friends
he does not ask them to his house; he invites them to a banquet at some
famous tea-house. There he provides not only the delicacies which make up
a Japanese dinner, but hires dancing girls, called geisha, to amuse the
company by their dancing and singing.
A foreigner who is asked to one of these Japanese dinners finds everything
very strange and not a little difficult. At the doors of the tea-house his
boots are taken off, and he marches across the matting, to do his best to
sit on his heels for a few hours. This gives him the cramp, and soon he is
reduced to sitting with his back against the wall and his legs stretched
out before him. He can manage in this way pretty fairly.
There may be a table before him, or there may not. If there is a table, it
will be a tiny affair about a foot high. There will be no tablecloth, no
glasses, no knives and forks, no spoons, and no napkin. He will be expected
to deal with his food with a pair of chopsticks. When these are set
before him, he will see that the two round slips of wood are still joined
together. This is to show that they have never been used before. He breaks
them apart, and wonders how he is going to get his food into his mouth with
two pencils of wood.
The feast begins with tea served by moosmes, who kneel before each
guest. Each wears her most beautiful dress, and is girded with a huge
and brilliant sash. After the tea they bring in pretty little white cakes
made of bean flour and sugar, and flavoured with honey. The next course is
contained in a batch of little dishes, two or three of which are placed
before each guest. These contain minced dried fish, sea slugs floating in
an evil-smelling sauce, and boiled lotus-seeds. To wash down these dainties
a porcelain bottle of saké, rice-beer, is provided.
The unhappy foreigner tastes one dish after the other, finds each one worse
than the last, and concludes to wait till the next course. This is composed
of a very great dainty, raw, live fish, which one dips in sauce before
devouring. Then comes rice, and the chopsticks of the Japanese feasters go
to work in marvellous fashion. With their strips of wood or ivory they whip
the rice grain into their mouths with wonderful speed and dexterity, but
our unlucky foreigner gets one grain into his mouth in five minutes, and is
reduced to beg for a spoon.
The next course is of fish soup and boiled fish, and potatoes appear with
the fish; but, alas! the fish is most oddly flavoured and the potatoes are
sweet; they have been beaten up with sugar into a sort of stiff syrup. Next
comes seaweed soup and the coarse evil-smelling daikon radish, served with
various pickles and sauces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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