One of the best-known temples in Bangkok is at the Golden Hill. This
hill is made of bricks and mortar, and stands about two hundred feet
high. Trees, shrubs, and creepers have grown over it, and it is not at
first easy to believe that the hill is the work of man. On the top is a
snow-white spire, and under the spire, in a gilded shrine, there is a
glass model of one of Buddha's teeth. For three days every year the
people come in thousands to worship this tooth. They buy a bit of
gold-leaf or a few wax flowers, and then they mount to the top of the
hill. There they stick the gold leaf on the iron railings round the
shrine, light the candles, throw the wax flowers into a big bonfire, and
bang a few drums. When they have completed all these little acts of
devotion, they go to the foot of the hill again. At the bottom a grand
fair is going on. There are lotteries of all kinds, tea-houses, crowds
of merry young men and women, dozens of yellow-robed priests, side-shows
with giant women and two-headed snakes. It is all laughter, chatter, and
enjoyment.
In another temple there is an image of Buddha asleep. The idol is 175
feet long, and has a whole building to itself. The gigantic figure is
made of brick and covered with gilded cement. It is 18 feet across the
chest; the feet are 5 yards long; the toes, which are each of equal
length, measure 1 yard.
CHAPTER X
THE SHAVING OF THE TOP-KNOT
Sometimes when the traveller is passing along one of the rivers or
canals he will hear the sound of merry music close at hand. He probably
pulls ashore, and goes to see what is happening. There is no need to
wait for invitations in this free-and-easy country. He makes his way to
the place where the band is doing its best to deafen all the poor
creatures within reach, and there he finds a motley crowd--men and women
in their best and brightest clothes, priests in their most brilliant
yellow, actresses with chalked faces and hideous masks, dogs, cats, and
children. Amongst the many people assembled together there is one child,
about eleven or thirteen years old, laden with jewellery--necklaces,
gold chains, armlets, bracelets, and anklets. It is on this child's
account that the people are feasting together, the theatre playing, and
the drums booming. We will suppose that the child is a boy. He is
holding a great party. The visitors have come to see him get his hair
cut! This, however, is not an ordinary visit to a barber, but a
ceremony as important as a wedding or a funeral.
From the very earliest years the heads of the children are shaved
completely, with the exception of one little tuft in the centre of the
head. Each day this precious tuft is oiled and curled, a jewelled pin is
stuck through it, and a tiny wreath of freshly woven flowers is twined
around it. No scissors are ever allowed to touch the cherished lock
until the boy is eleven, thirteen, or fifteen years old, and by that
time it is often a foot or more long.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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