Peeps at many lands: WalesWilmot-Buxton, E. M. (Ethel Mary)
History
Peeps at many lands: Wales
Wilmot-Buxton, E. M. (Ethel Mary)
Wales -- Description and travel
“‘We are on very high ground, sir, or it would look much higher. I
question, upon the whole, whether there is a higher hill in the world.
God bless Plynlimmon Mawr!’ said he, looking with reverence towards the
hill. ‘I am sure I have a right to say so, for many is the good crown I
have got by showing gentlefolks, like yourself, to the top of him.’
“‘You talk of Plynlimmon Mawr, or the Great Plynlimmon,’ said I; ‘where
are the smaller ones?’
“‘Yonder they are,’ said the guide, pointing to two hills towards the
north--‘the Middle and the Small Plynlimmon.... Those two hills we
have just passed make up the five. That small hill connected with the
big Plynlimmon on the right is called the Hill of the Calf, or Calf
Plynlimmon, which makes the sixth summit.’
“‘Very good,’ said I, ‘and perfectly satisfactory. Now let us ascend
the big Plynlimmon.’
“In about a quarter of an hour we reached the summit of the hill, where
stood a large cairn, or heap of stones. I got up on the top and looked
around me.
“A mountainous wilderness extended on every side, a waste of
russet-coloured hills, with here and there a black, craggy summit. No
signs of life or cultivation were to be discovered, and the eye might
search in vain for a grove, or even a single tree. The scene would
have been cheerless in the extreme had not a bright sun lighted up the
landscape.
“‘This does not seem to be a country of much society,’ I said to my
guide.
“‘It is not, sir. The nearest house is the inn we came from, which is
now three miles behind us. Straight before you there is not one for at
least ten, and on either side it is a wilderness to a vast distance.
Plynlimmon is not a sociable country, sir; nothing to be found in it,
but here and there a few sheep or a shepherd.’
“‘Now,’ said I, descending from the cairn, ‘we will proceed to the
sources of the rivers’ (the Severn, the Wye, and the Rheidol). The
source of the Rheidol is a small, beautiful lake, about a quarter of
a mile in length. It is overhung on the east and north by frightful
crags, from which it is fed by a number of small rills. The water is
of the deepest blue, and of very considerable depth. The banks, except
to the north and east, slope gently down, and are clad with soft and
beautiful moss. The river, of which it is the head, emerges at the
south-eastern side, and brawls away in the shape of a considerable
brook amidst moss and rushes down a wild glen to the south. If few
rivers have a more wild and wondrous channel than the Rheidol, fewer
still have a more beautiful and romantic source.
“After kneeling down and drinking freely of the lake, I followed my
guide over a hill into a valley, at the farther end of which I saw a
brook streaming to the south.
“‘That brook,’ said the guide, ‘is the young Severn.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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