Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I entered Avignon after a delicious hour on the Rhone, quite in the
mood to do poetical homage to its associations. My dreams of Petrarch
and Vaucluse were interrupted by a scene between my friend the
captain, and a stout boatman, who had brought his baggage from the
batteau. The result was an appeal to the mayor, who took the captain
aside after the matter was argued, and told him in his ear that he
must compromise the matter, for he _dared not give a judgment in his
favor_! The man had demanded _twelve_ francs where the regulations
allowed him but _one_, and palpable as the imposition was, the
magistrate refused to interfere. The captain curled his mustache and
walked the room in a terrible passion, and the boatman, an herculean
fellow, eyed him with a look of assurance which quite astonished me.
After the case was settled, I asked an explanation of the mayor. He
told me frankly, that the fellow belonged to a powerful class of men
of the lowest description, who, having declared first for the present
government, were and would be supported by it in almost any question
where favor could be shown--that all the other classes of inhabitants
were malcontents, and that, between positive strength and royal favor,
the boatmen and their party had become too powerful even for the
ordinary enforcement of the law.
The following day was so sultry and warm, that I gave up all idea of a
visit to Vaucluse. We spent the morning under the trees which stand
before the door of the _café_ in the village square, and at noon we
took the steamboat upon the Rhone for _Arles_. An hour or two brought
us to this ancient town, where we were compelled to wait till the next
day, the larger boat which goes hence by the mouths of the Rhone to
Marseilles, being out of order.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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