Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
We left our baggage in the boat, and I walked up with the captain to
see the town. An officer whom we addressed for information on the quay
politely offered to be our guide, and we passed three or four hours
rambling about, with great pleasure. Our first object was the Roman
ruins, for which the town is celebrated. We traversed several streets,
so narrow, that the old time-worn houses on either side seemed to
touch at the top, and in the midst of a desolate and poverty-stricken
neighborhood, we came suddenly upon a noble Roman amphitheatre of
gigantic dimensions, and sufficiently preserved to be a picturesque
ruin. It was built on the terrace of a hill, overlooking the Rhone.
From the towers of the gateway, the view across the river into the
lovely province of Languedoc, is very extensive. The arena is an
excavation of perhaps thirty feet in depth, and the rows of seats, all
built of vast blocks of stone, stretch round it in retreating and
rising platforms to the surface of the hill. The lower story is
surrounded with dens; and the upper terrace is enclosed with a circle
of small apartments, like boxes in a theatre, opening by handsome
arches upon the scene. It is the ruin of a noble structure, and, even
without the help of the imagination, exceedingly impressive. It seems
to be at present turned into a play-ground. The dens and cavities were
full of black-eyed and happy creatures, hiding and hallooing with all
the delightful spirit and gayety of French children. Probably it was
never appropriated to a better use.
We entered the cathedral in returning. It is an antique, and
considered a very fine one. The twilight was just falling; and the
candles burning upon the altar, had a faint, dull glare, making the
dimness of the air more perceptible. I walked up the long aisle to the
side chapel, without observing that my companions had left me, and,
quite tired with my walk, seated myself against one of the Gothic
pillars, enjoying the quiet of the place, and the momentary relief
from exciting objects. It struck me presently that there was a dead
silence in the church, and, as much to hear the sound of English as
for any better motive, I approached the priest's missal, which lay
open on a stand near me, and commenced translating a familiar psalm
aloud. My voice echoed through the building with a fullness which
startled me, and looking over my shoulder, I saw that a simple, poor
old woman was kneeling in the centre of the church, praying alone. She
had looked up at my interruption of the silence of the place, but her
beads still slipped slowly through her fingers, and, feeling that I
was intruding possibly between a sincere worshipper and her Maker, I
withdrew to the side aisle, and made my way softly out of the
cathedral.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account