Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
A cautious-looking old gentleman, with gray hair, emerged at last from
the smoke, with a long cane-pole in his hand, and, coughing at every
syllable, requested us to insert our passports in the split at the
extremity, which he thrust through the gate. This being done, we asked
him for bread. We had breakfasted at seven, and it was now
sundown--near twelve hours fast. Several of my companions had been
seasick with the swell of the Mediterranean, in coming from Antibes,
and all were faint with hunger and exhaustion. For myself, the
villainous smell of our purification had made me sick, and I had no
appetite; but the rest ate very voraciously of a loaf of coarse bread,
which was extended to us with a tongs and two pieces of paper.
After reading our passports, the magistrate informed us that he had no
orders to admit us to the lazaretto, and we must lie in our boat till
he could send a messenger to Nice with our passports and obtain
permission. We opened upon him, however, with such a flood of
remonstrance, and with such an emphasis from hunger and fatigue, that
he consented to admit us temporarily on his own responsibility, and
gave the boatmen orders to row back to a long, low stone building,
which we had observed at the foot of a precipice at the entrance to
the harbor.
He was there before us, and as we mounted the stone ladder he pointed
through the bars of a large inner gate to a single chamber, separated
from the rest of the building, and promising to send us something to
eat in the course of the evening, left us to take possession. Our
position was desolate enough. The building was new, and the plaster
still soft and wet. There was not an article of furniture in the
chamber, and but a single window; the floor was of brick, and the air
as damp within as a cellar. The alternative was to remain out of
doors, in the small yard, walled up thirty feet on three sides, and
washed by the sea on the other; and here, on a long block of granite,
the softest thing I could find, I determined to make an _al fresco_
night of it.
Bread, cheese, wine, and cold meat, seethed, Italian fashion, in
nauseous oil, arrived about nine o'clock; and, by the light of a
candle standing in a boot, we sat around on the brick floor, and
supped very merrily. Hunger had brought even our two French exquisites
to their fare, and they ate well. The navy surgeon had seen service,
and had no qualms; the Sicilians were from a German university, and
were not delicate; the Marseilles trader knew no better; and we should
have been less contented with a better meal. It was superfluous to
abuse it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account