Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
A steep precipice hangs immediately over the lazaretto, and the horn
of the half moon was just dipping below it, as I stretched myself to
sleep. With a folded coat under me, and a carpet-bag for a pillow, I
soon fell asleep, and slept soundly till sunrise. My companions had
chosen shelter, but all were happy to be early risers. We mounted our
wall upon the sea, and promenaded till the sun was broadly up, and
the breeze from the Mediterranean sharpened our appetites, and then
finishing the relics of our supper, we waited with what patience we
might the appearance of our breakfast.
* * * * *
The magistrate arrived at twelve, yesterday, with a commissary from
Villa Franca, who is to be our victualler during the quarantine. He
has enlarged our limits, by a stone staircase and an immense chamber,
on condition that we pay for an extra guard, in the shape of a
Sardinian soldier, who is to sleep in our room, and eat at our table.
By the way, we _have_ a table, and four rough benches, and these, with
three single mattresses, are all the furniture we can procure. We are
compelled to sleep _across_ the latter of course, to give every one
his share.
We have come down very contentedly to our situation, and I have been
exceedingly amused at the facility with which eight such different
tempers can amalgamate, upon compulsion. Our small quarters bring us
in contact continually, and we harmonize like schoolboys. At this
moment the Marseilles trader and the two Frenchmen are throwing stones
at something that is floating out with the tide; the surgeon has
dropped his Italian grammar to decide upon which is the best shot; the
Belgian is fishing off the wall, with a pin hook and a bit of cheese;
and the two Sicilians are talking _lingua franca_, at the top of their
voices, to Carolina, the guardian's daughter, who stands coquetting on
the pier just outside the limits. I have got out my books and
portfolio, and taken possession of the broad stair, depending on the
courtesy of my companions to jump over me and my papers when they go
up and down. I sit here most of the day laughing at the fun below, and
writing or reading alternately. The climate is too delicious for
discontent. Every breath is a pleasure. The hills of the amphitheatre
opposite to us are covered with olive, lemon, and orange trees; and in
the evening, from the time the land breeze commences to blow off shore
until ten or eleven, the air is impregnated with the delicate perfume
of the orange-blossom, than which nothing could be more grateful. Nice
is called the hospital of Europe; and truly, under this divine sky,
and with the inspiriting vitality and softness of the air, and all
that nature can lavish of luxuriance and variety upon the hills, it is
the place, if there is one in the world, where the drooping spirit of
the invalid must revive and renew. At this moment the sun has crept
from the peak of the highest mountain across the bay, and we shall
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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