Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I caught some half dozen views on the way that I shall never get out
of my memory. At one place particularly, I think near Fenale, we ran
round the corner of a precipice by a road cut right into the face of a
rock, two hundred feet at least above the sea; and a long view burst
upon us at once of a sweet green valley, stretching back into the
mountains as far as the eye could go, with three or four small towns,
with their white churches, just checkering the broad sweeps of
verdure, a rapid river winding through its bosom, and a back ground of
the Piedmontese Alps, with clouds half-way up their sides, and snow
glittering in the sun on their summits. Language cannot describe these
scenes. It is but a repetition of epithets to attempt it. You must
come and see them to feel how much one loses to live always at home,
and _read_ of such things only.
The _courier_ pointed out to us the place in which Napoleon imprisoned
the Pope of Rome--a low house, surrounded with a wall close upon the
sea--and the house a few miles from Genoa, believed to have been that
of Columbus.
* * * * *
We entered Genoa an hour after sunrise, by a noble gate, placed at the
western extremity of the crescented harbor. Thence to the centre of
the city was one continued succession of sumptuous palaces. We drove
rapidly along the smooth, beautifully paved streets, and my
astonishment was unbroken till we were set down at the hotel.
Congratulating ourselves on the hindrances which had conspired to
bring us here against our will, we took coffee, and went to bed for a
few hours, fatigued with a journey more wearisome to the body than the
mind.
* * * * *
I have spent two days in merely wandering about Genoa, looking at the
exterior of the city. It is a group of hills, piled with princely
palaces. I scarce know how to commence a description of it. If there
were but one of these splendid edifices, or if I could isolate a
single palace, and describe it to you minutely, it would be easy to
convey an impression of the surprise and pleasure of a stranger in
Genoa. The whole city, to use the expression of a French guide-book,
"_respire la magnificence_"--breathes of splendor! The grand street,
in which most of the palaces stand, winds around the foot of a high
hill; and the gardens and terraces are piled back, with palaces above
them; and gardens, and terraces, and palaces still above these;
forming, wherever you can catch a vista, the most exquisite rising
perspective. On the summit of this hill stands the noble fortress of
St. George; and behind it a lovely open garden, just now alive with
millions of roses, a fountain playing into a deep oval basin in the
centre, and a view beneath and beyond of a broad winding valley,
covered with the country villas of the nobility and gentry, and
blooming with all the luxuriant vegetation of a southern clime.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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