Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
My window looks out upon the bay, across which I see the palace of
_Andria Doria_, the great winner of the best glory of the Genoese; and
just under me floats an American flag, at the peak of a Baltimore
schooner, that sails to-morrow morning for the United States. I must
close my letter, to send by her. I shall remain in Genoa a week, and
will write you of its splendor more minutely.
LETTER XXVII.
FLORENCE--THE GALLERY--THE VENUS DE MEDICIS--THE TRIBUNE--THE
FORNARINA--THE CASCINE--AN ITALIAN FESTA--MADAME CATALANI.
FLORENCE.--It is among the pleasantest things in this very pleasant
world, to find oneself for the first time in a famous city. We sallied
from the hotel this morning an hour after our arrival, and stopped at
the first corner to debate where we should go. I could not help
smiling at the magnificence of the alternatives. "To the Gallery, of
course," said I, "to see the Venus de Medicis." "To Santa Croce," said
one, "to see the tombs of Michael Angelo, and Alfieri, and
Machiavelli." "To the Palazzo Pitti," said another, "the Grand Duke's
palace, and the choicest collection of pictures in the world." The
embarrassment alone was quite a sensation.
The Venus carried the day. We crossed the Piazza de Granduca, and
inquired for the gallery. A fine court was shown us, opening out from
the square, around the three sides of which stood a fine uniform
structure, with a colonnade, the lower story occupied by shops and
crowded with people. We mounted a broad staircase, and requested of
the soldier at the door to be directed to the presence of the Venus,
without delay. Passing through one of the long wings of the gallery,
without even a glance at the statues, pictures, and bronzes that lined
the walls, we arrived at the door of a cabinet, and, putting aside the
large crimson curtain at the entrance, stood before the enchantress. I
must defer a description of her. We spent an hour there, but, except
that her divine beauty filled and satisfied my eye, as nothing else
ever did, and that the statue is as unlike a thing to the casts one
sees of it as one thing could well be unlike another, I made no
criticism. There is an atmosphere of fame and circumstantial interest
about the Venus, which bewilders the fancy almost as much as her
loveliness does the eye. She has been gazed upon and admired by troops
of pilgrims, each of whom it were worth half a life to have met at her
pedestal. The painters, the poets, the talent and beauty, that have
come there from every country under the sun, and the single feeling of
love and admiration that she has breathed alike into all, consecrate
her mere presence as a place for revery and speculation. Childe Harold
has been here, I thought, and Shelley and Wordsworth and Moore; and,
farther removed from our sympathies, but interesting still, the poets
and sculptors of another age, Michael Angelo and Alfieri, the men of
genius of all nations and times; and, to stand in the same spot, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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