Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
The entrance
of some one disturbed me, and as I looked around I caught a glance of
my coquette, sitting with her hands awkwardly clasped over her
guide-book, her mouth open, and the lower jaw hanging down with a
ludicrous expression of unconsciousness and astonished admiration. She
was evidently unaware of everything in the world except the form
before her, and a more absorbed and sincere wonder I never witnessed.
I have been enjoying all day an Italian Festa. The Florentines have a
pleasant custom of celebrating this particular festival,
Ascension-day, in the open air; breakfasting, dining, and dancing
under the superb trees of the Cascine. This is, by the way, quite the
loveliest public pleasure-ground I ever saw--a wood of three miles in
circumference, lying on the banks of the Arno, just below the town;
not, like most European promenades, a bare field of clay or ground,
set out with stunted trees, and cut into rectangular walks, or
without a secluded spot or an untrodden blade of grass; but full of
sward-paths, green and embowered, the underbrush growing wild and
luxuriant between; ivy and vines of all descriptions hanging from the
limbs, and winding about every trunk; and here and there a splendid
opening of velvet grass for half a mile, with an ornamental temple in
the centre, and beautiful contrivances of perspective in every
direction. I have been not a little surprised with the enchantment of
so public a place. You step into the woods from the very pavement of
one of the most populous streets in Florence; from dust and noise and
a crowd of busy people to scenes where Boccacio might have fitly laid
his "hundred tales of love." The river skirts the Cascine on one side,
and the extensive grounds of a young Russian nobleman's villa on the
other; and here at sunset come all the world to walk and drive, and on
festas like this, to encamp, and keep holy-day under the trees. The
whole place is more like a half-redeemed wild-wood in America, than a
public promenade in Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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