Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
It is the custom, I am told, for the Grand Duke and the nobles of
Tuscany to join in this festival, and breakfast in the open air with
the people. The late death of the young and beautiful Grand-Duchess
has prevented it this year, and the merry-makings are diminished of
one half their interest. I should not have imagined it, however,
without the information. I took a long stroll among the tents this
morning, with two ladies from Albany, old friends, whom I have
encountered accidentally in Florence. The scenes were peculiar and
perfectly Italian. Everything was done fantastically and tastefully.
The tables were set about the knolls, the bonnets and shawls hung upon
the trees, and the dark-eyed men and girls, with their expressive
faces full of enjoyment, leaned around upon the grass, with the
children playing among them, in innumerable little parties, dispersed
as if it had been managed by a painter. At every few steps a long
embowered alley stretched off to the right or left, with strolling
groups scattered as far as the eye could see under the trees, the red
ribands and bright colored costumes contrasting gayly with the foliage
of every tint, from the dusky leaf of the olive to the bright soft
green of the acacia. Wherever there was a circular opening there were
tents just in the edges of the wood, the white festoons of the cloth
hung from the limbs, and tables spread under them, with their
antique-looking Tuscan pitchers wreathed with vines, and tables spread
with broad green leaves, making the prettiest cool covering that could
be conceived. I have not come up to the reality in this description,
and yet, on reading it, it sounds half a fiction. One must be here to
feel how little language can convey an idea of this "garden of the
world."
The evening was the fashionable hour, and, with the addition of Mr.
Greenough, the sculptor, to our party, we drove to the Cascine about
an hour before sunset to see the equipages, and enjoy the close of the
festival. The drives intersect these beautiful grounds irregularly in
every direction, and the spectacle was even more brilliant than in the
morning. The nobility and the gay world of Florence flew past us, in
their showy carriages of every description, the distinguished
occupants differing in but one respect from well-bred people of other
countries--_they looked happy_. If I had been lying on the grass, an
Italian peasant, with my kinsmen and friends, I should not have felt
that among the hundreds who were rolling past me, richer and better
born, there was one face that looked on me contemptuously or
condescendingly. I was very much struck with the universal air of
enjoyment and natural exhilaration. One scarce felt like a stranger in
such a happy-looking crowd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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