Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
I was loitering down one of the gloomy aisles of San Marc's church,
just at twilight this evening, listening to the far-off Ave Maria in
one of the distant chapels, when a Boston gentleman, who I did not
know was abroad, entered with his family, and passed up to the altar.
It is difficult to conceive with what a tide the half-forgotten
circumstances of a home, so far away, rush back upon one's heart in a
strange land, after a long absence, at the sight of familiar faces. I
could realize nothing about me after it--the glittering mosaic of
precious stones under my feet, the gold and splendid colors of the
roof above me, the echoes of the monotonous chant through the
arches--foreign and strange as these circumstances all were. I was
irresistibly at home, the familiar pictures of my native place filling
my eye, and the recollections of those whom I love and honor there
crowding upon my heart with irresistible emotion. The feeling is a
painful one, and with the necessity for becoming again a forgetful
wanderer, remembering home only as a dream, one shrinks from such
things. The reception of a letter, even, destroys a day.
* * * * *
There has been a grand _festa_ to-day at the _Lido_. This, you know,
is a long island, forming part of the sea-wall of Venice. It is,
perhaps, five or six miles long, covered in part with groves of small
trees, and a fine green sward; and to the Venetians, to whom leaves
and grass are holyday novelties, is the scene of their gayest
_festas_. They were dancing and dining under the trees; and in front
of the fort which crowns the island, the Austrian commandant had
pitched his tent, and with a band of military music, the officers were
waltzing with ladies in a circle of green sward, making altogether a
very poetical scene. We passed an hour or two wandering among this gay
and unconscious people, and came home by one of the loveliest sunsets
that ever melted sea and sky together. Venice looked like a vision of
a city hanging in mid-air.
* * * * *
We have been again to that delightful _palace of Manfrini_. The
"Portia swallowing fire," the Rembrandt portrait, the far-famed
"Giorgione, son and wife," and twenty others, which to see is to be
charmed, delighted me once more. I believe the surviving Manfrini is
the only noble left in Venice. _Pesaro_, who disdained to live in his
country after its liberty was gone, died lately in London. His palace
here is the finest structure I have seen, and his country-house on the
Brenta is a paradise. It must have been a strong feeling which exiled
him from them for eighteen years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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