Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
In coming from the Manfrini, we stopped at the church of "St. Mary of
Nazareth." This is one of those whose cost might buy a kingdom. Its
gold and marbles oppress one with their splendor. In the centre of the
ceiling is a striking fresco of the bearing of "Loretto's chapel
through the air;" and in one of the corners a lovely portrait of a boy
looking over a balustrade, done by the artist _fourteen years of age_!
* * * * *
PADUA.--We have passed two days in this venerable city of learning,
including a visit to Petrarch's tomb at Arqua. The university here is
still in its glory, with fifteen hundred students. It has never
declined, I believe, since Livy's time. The beautiful inner court has
two or three galleries, crowded with the arms of the nobles and
distinguished individuals who have received its honors. It has been
the "cradle of princes" from every part of Europe.
Around one of the squares of the city, stand forty or fifty statues of
the great and distinguished foreigners who have received their
education here. It happened to be the month of vacation, and we could
not see the interior.
At a public palace, so renowned for the size and singular architecture
of its principal hall, we saw a very antique bust of Titus Livy--a
fine, cleanly-chiselled, scholastic old head, that looked like the
spirit of Latin embodied. We went thence to the Duomo, where they show
a beautiful bust of Petrarch, who lived at Padua some of the latter
years of his life. It is a softer and more voluptuous countenance than
is given him in the pictures.
The church of Saint Antony here has stood just six hundred years. It
occupied a century in building, and is a rich and noble old specimen
of the taste of the times, with eight cupolas and towers, twenty-seven
chapels inside, four immense organs, and countless statues and
pictures. Saint Antony's body lies in the midst of the principal
chapel, which is surrounded with relievos representing his miracles,
done in the best manner of the glorious artists of antiquity. We were
there during mass, and the people were nearly suffocating themselves
in the press to touch the altar and tomb of the saint. This chapel was
formerly lit by massive silver lamps, which Napoleon took, presenting
them with their models in gilt. He also exacted from them three
thousand sequins for permission to retain the chin and tongue of St.
Antony, which works miracles still, and are preserved in a splendid
chapel with immense brazen doors. Behind the main altar I saw a
harrowing picture by Tiepoli, of the martyrdom of St. Agatha. Her
breasts are cut off, and lying in a dish. The expression in the face
of the dying woman is painfully well done.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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