Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
The baths of Diocletian (which I visited to-day), covered an enormous
space. They occupied seven years in building, and were the work of
_forty thousand Christian slaves, two thirds of whom died of fatigue
and misery_! Mounting one of the seven hills of Rome, we come to some
half-ruined arches, of enormous size, extending a long distance, in
the sides of which were built two modern churches. One was the work of
Michael Angelo, and one of his happiest efforts. He has turned two of
the ancient halls into a magnificent church, in the shape of a Greek
cross, leaving in their places eight gigantic columns of granite.
After St. Peter's it is the most imposing church in Rome.
We drove thence to the baths of Titus, passing the site of the
ancient gardens of Mecænas, in which still stands the tower from which
Nero beheld the conflagration of Rome. The houses of Horace and Virgil
communicated with this garden, but they are now undistinguishable. We
turned up from the Coliseum to the left, and entered a gate leading to
the baths of Titus. Five or six immense arches presented their front
to us, in a state of picturesque ruin. We took a guide, and a long
pole, with a lamp at the extremity, and descended to the subterranean
halls, to see the still inimitable frescoes upon the ceilings. Passing
through vast apartments, to the ruined walls of which still clung,
here and there, pieces of the finely-colored stucco of the ancients,
we entered a suite of long galleries, some forty feet high, the arched
roofs of which were painted with the most exquisite art, in a kind of
fanciful border-work, enclosing figures and landscapes, in as bright
colors as if done yesterday. Farther on was the niche in which was
found the famous group of Laocoon, in a room belonging to a
subterranean palace of the emperor, communicating with the baths. The
Belvedere Meleager was also found here. The imagination loses itself
in attempting to conceive the splendor of these under-ground palaces,
blazing with artificial light, ornamented with works of art, never
equalled, and furnished with all the luxury which an emperor of Rome,
in the days when the wealth of the world flowed into her treasury,
could command for his pleasure. How short life must have seemed to
them, and what a tenfold curse became death and the common ills of
existence, interrupting or taking away pleasures so varied and
inexhaustible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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