Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
These baths were built in the last great days of Rome, and one reads
the last stages of national corruption and, perhaps, the secret of her
fall, in the character of these ornamented walls. They breathe the
very spirit of voluptuousness. Naked female figures fill every
plafond, and fauns and satyrs, with the most licentious passions in
their faces, support the festoons and hold together the intricate
ornament of the frescoes. The statues, the pictures, the object of the
place itself, inspired the wish for indulgence, and the history of the
private lives of the emperors and wealthier Romans shows the effect in
its deepest colors.
We went on to the baths of Caracalla, the largest ruins of Rome. They
are just below the palaces of the Cesars, and ten minutes' walk from
the Coliseum. It is one labyrinth of gigantic arches and ruined halls,
the ivy growing and clinging wherever it can fasten its root, and the
whole as fine a picture of decay as imagination could create. This was
the favorite haunt of Shelley, and here he wrote his fine tragedy of
Prometheus. He could not have selected a more fitting spot for
solitary thought. A herd of goats were climbing over one of the walls,
and the idle boy who tended them lay asleep in the sun, and every
footstep echoed loud through the place. We passed two or three hours
rambling about, and regained the populous streets of Rome in the last
light of the sunset.
LETTER LVII.
SUMMER WEATHER IN MARCH--BATHS OF CARACALLA--BEGINNING OF THE
APPIAN WAY--TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS--CATACOMBS--CHURCH OF SAN
SEBASTIANO--YOUNG CAPUCHIN FRIAR--TOMBS OF THE EARLY CHRISTIAN
MARTYRS--CHAMBER WHERE THE APOSTLES WORSHIPPED--TOMB OF
CECILIA METELLA--THE CAMPAGNA--CIRCUS OF CARACALLA OR
ROMULUS--TEMPLE DEDICATED TO RIDICULE--KEATS'S GRAVE--FOUNTAIN
OF EGERIA--THE WOOD WHERE NUMA MET THE NYMPH--HOLY WEEK.
The last days of March have come, clothed in sunshine and summer. The
grass is tall in the Campagna, the fruit-trees are in blossom, the
roses and myrtles are in full flower, the shrubs are in full leaf, the
whole country about breathes of June. We left Rome this morning on an
excursion to the "Fountain of Egeria." A more heavenly day never
broke. The gigantic baths of Caracalla turned us aside once more, and
we stopped for an hour in the shade of their romantic arches, admiring
the works, while we execrated the character of their ferocious
builder.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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