Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
In the same valley almost hidden with the luxuriant ivy waving before
the entrance, flows the lovely _Fountain of Egeria_, trickling as
clear and musical into its pebbly bed as when visited by the enamored
successor of Romulus twenty-five centuries ago! The hill above leans
upon the single arch of the small temple which embosoms it, and the
green soft meadow spreads away from the floor, with the brightest
verdure conceivable. We wound around by a half-worn path in descending
the hill, and, putting aside the long branches of ivy, entered an
antique chamber, sprinkled with quivering spots of sunshine, at the
extremity of which, upon a kind of altar, lay the broken and defaced
statue of the nymph. The fountain poured from beneath in two streams
as clear as crystal. In the sides of the temple were six empty niches,
through one of which stole, from a cleft in the wall, a little stream,
which wandered from its way. Flowers, pale with growing in the shade,
sprang from the edges of the rivulet as it found its way out, the
small creepers, dripping with moisture, hung out from between the
diamond-shaped stones of the roof, the air was refreshingly cool, and
the leafy door at the entrance, seen against the sky, looked of a
transparent green, as vivid as emerald. No fancy could create a
sweeter spot. The fountain and the inspiration it breathed into Childe
Harold are worthy of each other.
Just above the fountain, on the crest of a hill, stands a thick grove,
supposed to occupy the place of the consecrated wood, in which Numa
met the nymph. It is dark with shadow, and full of birds, and might
afford a fitting retreat for meditation to another king and lawgiver.
The fields about it are so thickly studded with flowers, that you
cannot step without crushing them, and the whole neighborhood seems a
favorite of nature. The rich banker, Torlonia, has bought this and
several other classic spots about Rome--possessions for which he is
more to be envied than for his purchased dukedom.
All the travelling world assembles at Rome for the ceremonies of the
holy week. Naples, Florence, and Pisa, send their hundreds of annual
visitors, and the hotels and palaces are crowded with strangers of
every nation and rank. It would be difficult to imagine a gayer or
busier place than this usually sombre city has become within a few
days.
LETTER LVIII.
PALM SUNDAY--SISTINE CHAPEL--ENTRANCE OF THE POPE--THE
CHOIR--THE POPE ON HIS THRONE--PRESENTING THE
PALMS--PROCESSION--BISHOP ENGLAND'S LECTURE--HOLY TUESDAY--THE
MISERERE--ACCIDENTS IN THE CROWD--TENEBRÆ--THE EMBLEMATIC
CANDLES--HOLY THURSDAY--FRESCOES OF MICHAEL ANGELO--"CREATION
OF EVE"--"LOT INTOXICATED"--DELPHIC SYBIL--POPE WASHING
PILGRIMS' FEET--STRIKING RESEMBLANCE OF ONE TO JUDAS--POPE AND
CARDINALS WAITING UPON PILGRIMS AT DINNER.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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