Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
put his slender candle. We saw the skeleton as it had fallen from the
flesh in decay, untouched, perhaps, since the time of Christ.
We crossed through several cross-passages, and came to a small
chamber, excavated simply in the earth, with an earthern altar, and an
antique marble cross above. This was the scene of the forbidden
worship of the early Christians, and before this very cross, which
was, perhaps, then newly selected as the emblem of their faith, met
the few dismayed followers of Christ, hidden from their persecutors,
while they breathed their forbidden prayers to their lately crucified
Master.
We reascended to the light of day by the rough stone steps, worn deep
by the feet of those who, for ages, for so many different reasons,
have passed up and down; and, taking leave of our capuchin conductor,
drove on to the next object upon the road--the _tomb of Cecilia
Metella_. It stands upon a slight elevation, in the Appian Way, a
"stern round tower," with the ivy dropping over its turrets and waving
from the embrasures, looking more like a castle than a tomb. Here was
buried "the wealthiest Roman's wife," or, according to Corinne, his
unmarried daughter. It was turned into a fortress by the marauding
nobles of the thirteenth century, who sallied from this and the tomb
of Adrian, plundering the ill-defended subjects of Pope Innocent IV.
till they were taken and hanged from the walls by Brancaleone, the
Roman senator. It is built with prodigious strength. We stooped in
passing under the low archway, and emerged into the round chamber
within, a lofty room, open to the sky, in the circular wall of which
there is a niche for a single body. Nothing could exceed the delicacy
and fancy with which Childe Harold muses on this spot.
The lofty turrets command a wide view of the Campagna, the long
aqueducts stretching past at a short distance, and forming a chain of
noble arches from Rome to the mountains of Albano. Cole's picture of
the Roman Campagna, as seen from one of these elevations, is, I think,
one of the finest landscapes ever painted.
Just below the tomb of Metella, in a flat valley, lie the extensive
ruins of what is called the "circus of Caracalla" by some, and the
"circus of Romulus" by others--a scarcely distinguishable heap of
walls and marble, half buried in the earth and moss; and not far off
stands a beautiful ruin of a small temple dedicated (as some say) to
_Ridicule_. One smiles to look at it. If the embodying of that which
is powerful, however, should make a deity, the dedication of a temple
to _ridicule_ is far from amiss. In our age particularly, one would
think, the lamp should be relit, and the reviewers should repair the
temple. Poor Keats sleeps in his grave scarce a mile from the spot, a
human victim sacrificed, not long ago, upon its highest altar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account