Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Besides common soap, the so-called emulsions, meals, pastes, vegetable
milks and creams are the best preparations for the care of the skin;
in perfumery they are even preferable to soap in some respects because
they contain not only substances which have a cleansing effect like any
soap, scented or not, but at the same time render the skin clearer,
more transparent, and more supple.
EMULSIONS.
Many perfumers make a definite distinction between two groups
of emulsions which they call respectively “emulsions” and “true
emulsions.” By “emulsions” they mean masses which have the property
of changing on contact with water into a milky fluid or becoming
emulsified; the term “true emulsions” is applied to such preparations
as already contain a sufficient amount of water and therefore have a
milky appearance. Hence the difference between the two preparations
lies in the lesser or greater quantity of water, and is so variable
that we prefer to describe them under one head.
The cause of the milky appearance of the emulsions on coming in contact
with water is that they contain, besides fat, substances which possess
the property of keeping the fat suspended in form of exceedingly minute
droplets which make the entire fluid look like milk. As a glance
through the microscope shows, the milk of animals consists of a clear
fluid in which the divided fat droplets (butter) float; these by their
refractive power make the milk appear white.
While soaps always contain a certain quantity of free alkali, a
substance having active caustic properties, emulsions include very
little if any alkali, and, since they possess the same cleansing power
as soap without its disadvantages with reference to the skin, their
steady use produces a warm youthful complexion, as well as smoothness
and delicacy of the skin.
Glycerin is of special importance in the composition of emulsions.
Besides the above-mentioned property of this substance of keeping
the skin soft and supple, it acts as a true cosmetic by its solvent
power of coloring matters: a skin deeply browned by exposure to the
sun is most rapidly whitened by the use of glycerin alone. Moreover,
glycerin prevents the decomposition of the preparations and keeps them
unchanged for a long time. This quality has a value which should not be
underestimated; for all emulsions are very apt to decompose and become
rancid owing to the finely divided fat they contain. Under ordinary
conditions, only complete protection against light and air can retard
rancidity, which is accompanied by a disagreeable odor not to be masked
by any perfume; an addition of glycerin, which we incorporate in all
emulsions, makes them more permanent owing to the antiseptic property
of this substance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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