Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Recent years, however, have made us acquainted with a substance which
in very minute quantities—one-half of one per cent of the mass to be
preserved by it—prevents decomposition and rancidity of fats. This is
salicylic acid, a chemical product which, being harmless, tasteless,
and odorless, should be employed wherever we wish to guard against
destructive influences exerted by air, fermentation, etc. While
formerly all emulsions were made only in small amounts, just sufficient
for several weeks’ use, salicylic acid enables us to manufacture
larger quantities at once and to keep them without much fear of their
spoiling. However, even the presence of salicylic acid is no guaranty
against deterioration, if other precautions are neglected. The products
should be kept in well-stoppered bottles or vessels, in a cool and
dark place. All substances cannot be preserved by salicylic acid,
and there are certain ferments or fungi which resist the action of
salicylic acid. If chloroform is not objectionable in any of these
preparations—and only so much is necessary as can be held in actual
_solution_ by the liquid, on an average three drops to the ounce—this
preservative is preferable to salicylic acid.
The only fats used in the preparation of emulsions are expressed oil
of almonds, olive oil, and lard. Almond oil is best made by immediate
pressure of the bruised fruits, since fresh almond meal likewise finds
application in perfumery; olive oil and lard must be very carefully
purified. This is done by heating them for one hour with about ten
times the quantity of water containing soap (one per cent of the
quantity of fat to be purified). They are then treated five or six
times with pure warm water until the latter escapes quite neutral. If
the water turns red litmus paper blue, it would indicate the presence
of free alkali (soap); if it turns blue litmus paper red, it would
prove the presence of free fatty acids (rancid fat). Either one of
these substances, especially the latter, would injure the quality
of the product. The fat should be absolutely neutral and have no
influence on either kind of litmus paper; then its quality may be
pronounced perfect.
CHAPTER XXI.
FORMULAS FOR THE PREPARATION OF EMULSIONS, MEALS, PASTES, VEGETABLE
MILK, AND COLD-CREAMS.
A. Emulsions.
AMANDINE.
_Almond Cream._—Melt ten pounds of purified lard in an enamelled iron
pot or a porcelain vessel, and while increasing the temperature add
little by little five pounds of potash lye of 25% strength, stirring
all the time with a broad spatula. When fat and lye have become a
uniform mass, 2¾ to 3½ ounces of alcohol is gradually added, whereby
the mixture acquires a translucent, crystalline appearance. Before the
alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter almond
is dissolved in it. The soapy mass thus obtained is called “almond
cream” (crême d’amandes) and may be used alone for washing. For making
Amandine take of—
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