Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The oil is intimately mixed with one per cent of sulphuric acid. The
mixture assumes a black color, the vegetable mucilage present in the
oil becoming carbonized. After several days’ rest the oil becomes clear
and floats on the surface of the sulphuric acid which has assumed a
black color from the presence of finely divided carbon. The oil is
decanted and treated, in the manner above stated for solid fats, with
caustic soda lye. Heating can be dispensed with if the pumping is
continued for a longer time.
Benzoin and benzoic acid have the property of counteracting the
tendency of fats to become rancid; it is advisable, therefore, to mix
intimately with the completely washed fat a small amount of benzoic
acid, at most one-one-thousandth part by weight.
The best way of preserving fats is by salicylic acid. This is added
to solid fats while they are in a melted state; if oils, the acid is
poured in and the bottle vigorously shaken. If the oil is in casks,
a small bag filled with salicylic acid is hung into it from the
bung-hole. The acid dissolves in the oil and is disseminated through it
and thus effects its preservation. One-one-thousandth part by weight of
the fat or oil is said to be more than sufficient to keep it perfectly
fresh for years.
Fats differ largely in their physical properties—for instance, in
their appearance, melting-point, firmness, etc. As we shall return to
this subject in connection with the manufacture of some perfumes, it is
enough here to state briefly that by the addition of spermaceti, wax,
paraffin, etc., fats are made more transparent and firmer—a matter of
importance for some cosmetic preparations.
CHINESE GELATIN.
This substance, derived from several algæ, species of Eucheuma,
indigenous to the Chinese sea, and identical with Japanese agar-agar,
on being boiled with two hundred parts of water has the property of
forming a colorless solution which solidifies on cooling. Owing to this
property the addition of a small quantity of Chinese gelatin (0·1-0·2%)
is an excellent means for imparting to certain pomades and ointments
great transparency and firmness.
FRUIT ETHERS
are liquids which possess an agreeable, refreshing odor resembling
that of some fruits. For this reason they are used in confectionery,
in the manufacture of liqueurs, and also in many ways in perfumery.
Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid—acetic,
butyric, valerianic, etc.—with a so-called alcohol radicle such as
ethyl and amyl. Their manufacture is connected with many difficulties
and is but rarely attempted by perfumers, especially as these products
are made a specialty in some chemical laboratories and are furnished at
very low prices and of excellent quality. In perfumery the following
fruit ethers are particularly employed.
ACETIC ETHER,
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