Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
For freeing the essential oil completely from water we use a so-called
separating funnel (Fig. 16). This consists of a glass funnel T resting
on a suitable support G, which is closed above with a glass plate
ground to fit, drawn out below into a fine point S, and provided with a
glass stop-cock H. The contents of the Florentine flask are poured into
the funnel which is covered with the glass plate and allowed to stand
at rest until the layer of oil O is clearly separated from the water W.
By careful opening of the stop-cock the water is allowed to escape and
the oil is immediately filled into bottles which are closed air tight
and preserved in a cool and dark place.
MACERATION (INFUSION).
Some odors, like those of cassie, rose, reseda, syringa, jasmine,
violets, and many other fragrant blossoms, cannot be obtained by
distillation as completely or as sweet-scented as by the process
of maceration which is in general use among the large perfumers in
southern France. This process is based on the property of fats to
absorb odorous substances with avidity and to yield them almost
entirely to strong alcohol. According to the fat employed for the
maceration of the flowers—a solid fat like lard or a liquid like olive
oil—odorous products are obtained which are known either as pomades
or as perfumed oils (huiles antiques). By repeatedly treating fresh
flowers with the same fat the manufacturer is able to perfume the
pomade or oil at will, and in the factories these varying strengths
are designated by numbers; the higher numbers indicating the stronger
products.
The process of maceration is very simple. The fat is put into porcelain
or enamelled iron pots which are heated, in a shallow vessel filled
with water, to 40 or at most 50° C. (104-122° F.); the flowers are
inclosed in small bags of fine linen and hung into the fat, where they
are allowed to remain for from one-half to two days. At the end of that
time the bags are removed, drained, expressed, refilled with fresh
flowers, and replaced in the fat. This procedure is repeated twelve to
sixteen times or oftener, thus producing pomades or oils of varying
fragrance.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
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