Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
As the odors are much superior when the flowers are only a short
time in contact with the fat, it is better to use an apparatus for
continuous operation (Fig. 17). It consists of a box K made of tin
plate, which is divided into from five to ten compartments by vertical
septa and can be closed water tight by a lid to be screwed on. The
septa have alternate upper and lower openings. The compartments contain
each a basket of tinned wire filled with the flowers for maceration,
then the lid is closed and the box heated in a water bath to 40 or
50° C. (104-122° F.). The stop-cock H in tube R is now opened. This
admits melted fat or oil from a vessel above to the first compartment
in which it rises through the basket filled with flowers whose odor it
abstracts. The additional fat coming from above drives it over through
the opening O_{2} into compartment 2, where it comes in contact with
fresh flowers, passes through O_{3} into the third compartment, and so
on through 4 and 5, until it finally escapes through R_{1} well charged
with odor. According to requirements a larger number of compartments
may be employed.
When all the fat has passed through the apparatus, it is opened, the
basket is removed from compartment 1, the basket from No. 2 is placed
in 1, that from 3 in 2, etc.; basket 1 is emptied, filled with fresh
flowers, and placed in compartment 5, so that every basket gradually
passes through all compartments to No. 1. In this way the fat rapidly
absorbs all the odor.
The odorous substances are abstracted from the pomades or huiles
antiques by treatment with strong alcohol (90-95%) which dissolves the
essential oils but not the fats. The huiles antiques with the alcohol
are placed in large glass bottles and frequently shaken. In order to
abstract the odors from pomades, the latter are allowed to congeal and
are divided into small pieces which are inserted into the bottles of
alcohol. A better plan is to fill the pomades into a tin cylinder with
a narrow opening in front and to express the pomades, by a well-fitting
piston, in the shape of a thin thread which thus presents a large
surface to the action of the alcohol, thus hastening the absorption
of the odor. The alcoholic solution obtained after some weeks is then
distilled off at a low temperature. We shall recur to this hereafter.
No matter how long the fats are left in contact with alcohol, they do
not yield up to it all the odor, but retain a small portion of it and
hence have a very fragrant smell. They are, therefore, brought into
commerce as perfumed oils or pomades bearing the name of the odorous
substance they contain: orange flower, reseda pomade or oil, etc.; they
are highly prized and are sometimes used again for the extraction of
the same odor.
Some odors cannot bear even the slight rise of temperature necessary
for their extraction by the method of maceration or infusion. For these
delicate odors one of the following methods may be employed.
ABSORPTION OR ENFLEURAGE.
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