Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
commercially known also under the French names huile de fleurs
d’oranges, huile néroli, huile néroli pétale, is obtained from the
flowers of the orange-tree in Southern France, where the orange is
specially planted for this purpose. The odor of the oil varies with the
mode of its preparation; that obtained by distillation with water has
a different odor from that made by maceration with fat and extraction
with alcohol. The latter variety of oil as such, however, is not
found in commerce, the alcoholic extract entering at once into the
composition of the perfumes.
The French manufacturers of this oil, which is of great importance in
perfumery, distinguish several varieties. The most valuable is the oil
from the flowers of Citrus vulgaris (or Citrus Bigaradia), the true
bitter orange (or Seville orange) tree. This is the so-called néroli
bigarade. That called néroli pétale is obtained from the same flowers
carefully deprived of their floral envelopes, so that only the petals
are subjected to distillation. Much cheaper than these two is the oil
of petit grain which is distilled from the leaves and sometimes also
unripe fruits of various trees of the Citrus order.
All these oils are among the most delicate; when fresh they are
colorless and have a peculiar bitter taste; exposed to light and air
they assume a reddish tint and undergo rapid resinification. They
should, therefore, be preserved in particularly well-closed vessels in
a dark, cool place.
Not to be confounded with these oils is the
OIL OF ORANGE,
of which there are two kinds, one from the bitter orange, known also
as Oil of Orange, Bigarade, and the other from the sweet orange, also
known as Oil of Portugal. Both are extracted from the peel of the fruit
by mechanical means. Both oils of orange peel are golden yellow, and
have a pleasant, refreshing odor recalling that of the fruit. They
find application for scenting soap, in toilet waters, and in some true
perfumes. When oil of orange or oil of orange peel is mentioned in any
formula, without further specification, the oil of _bitter_ orange peel
should be used.
OIL OF PATCHOULY.
This oil, which might be manufactured with advantage in India, the
home of the plant, is, strange to say, not imported from that country,
but is distilled in Europe from the dried herb. Fresh oil of patchouly
is brown in color, very viscid, almost like balsam, and surpasses all
other essential oils in the intensity of its odor. Owing to the strong
odor, pure oil of patchouly must really be called ill-smelling; only
when highly diluted does the odor become pleasant, and then forms a
useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor in the
harmony.
OIL OF SYRINGA.
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