Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Oil of false jasmine, from the flowers of Philadelphus coronarius,
is not made as such; in Southern France, however, the flowers
are frequently used for the preparation of a cheap pomade known
commercially as orange-flower pomade. A personal experiment made with
the view to obtain the pure odor by extraction of the flowers with
petroleum ether has shown that this plant is suitable for making very
fine preparations, both handkerchief perfumes and pomades.
OIL OF ALLSPICE,
of a burning sharp taste and odor, is colorless, but is hardly ever
used for the purposes of the perfumer—at most for soaps—but all the
more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs, and particularly also
in that of artificial bay-rum.
OIL OF SWEET PEA
has not been made thus far, though there is no doubt that this perfume,
too, can be prepared pure from the alcoholic extract of the pomade.
The properties of the oil should resemble those of the finest néroli
pétale.
OIL OF RUE (OLEUM RUTÆ).
This oil, obtained by distillation of the herb, is colorless or pale
yellow, of a very strong, penetrating odor; it is used in some washes,
but more particularly as an ingredient in the manufacture of artificial
cognac, for which purpose the plant is specially cultivated in France.
OIL OF RESEDA (MIGNONETTE).
The delightful odor of this plant which formerly could only be fixed by
maceration in fat may be readily prepared by extraction with petroleum
ether. Yet special precautions should be taken that nothing but
portions of the flowers, carefully picked off, and no green leaves are
extracted. The oil thus obtained has a yellow color and a disagreeable
odor which changes into the well-known pleasant smell of the flower
when highly diluted with alcohol.
OIL OF ROSE (OLEUM ROSÆ),
also known as attar or otto of rose. The various species of roses give
different odors. The commercial Turkish, Persian, and Indian oils of
rose (which latter is never exported)—which, by the way, are very
generally adulterated even at their point of production—are derived
mainly from Rosa damascena, and when highly diluted yield the pleasant
odor of our ordinary garden roses. The rose oils having the odor of the
moss rose, tea rose, or dog rose are made almost exclusively in France
and in commerce do not appear pure but generally in the form of pomades
or alcoholic solutions known as essences de roses.
True rose oil is yellowish or yellow, or else greenish, and varying
from liquid almost to the consistence of butter. Between these
extremes there are all possible gradations. A comparatively very high
congealing-point is a characteristic of oil of rose. It becomes almost
solid at 14 to 20° C. (57 to 68° F.). The portion separated during
solidification is colorless, markedly crystalline, and, strange to say,
almost odorless. Pure oil of rose smells disagreeably narcotic, only
the very dilute solution shows the incomparable fragrance.
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